Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner

Prothane Motor Mount Inserts

7.5K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  RHamill  
#1 ·
WallyTiburon Product Review: Prothane Motor Mount inserts

(Every question about Prothane Motor Mounts will be answered here... so stop asking.)

Before I start any type of review on what kind of product the Prothane Motor Mount inserts are, I'd like to work the bugs out of the obvious lack of definition and need for clarification in the symantics of the word "Motor mount". I'd normally make some type of disclaimer about the information within my post but then again, everything I've learned... I've learned from these boards.

When refering to the "motor mounts" attaching the engine to the car, it seems that only two of the mounts people refer to are actually motor mounts that hold the engine to the (sub)frame of the car. These motor mounts are on the driver side (often refered to as the tranny mount) and the passenger side (often refered to as the engine mount). The other two mounts are also known as "Roll Stoppers"... quite an intuitive name actually. They prevent the engine from "rolling" back and forth in the engine bay. The roll stoppers are located at the front of the engine (near the radiator) and the rear of the engine (read: crawl under the car). The roll stoppers are the "motor mounts" that most people refer to on the NT boards. These are the "motor mounts" I will be reviewing.

In case you wonder why I opted for the prothane motor mount inserts over the NGM, RIPP, YAYA, Alpine, and Shark Racing mounts, I happen to be frugal. Or cheap if you prefer to be more blunt. Two pair of the prothanes cost me 37 dollars shipped from Prothane's Ebay store. Each pair mate to opposite sides of the OEM roll stoppers to reinforce the OEM mount. Hence the two pair purchased. I believe the other mentioned motor mounts are full replacements and start at a price of around $80 dollars.

Now that the prothanes are installed, I noticed an immediate difference in two huge areas of driving: Idle and Shifting.

At idle, with both mounts installed, I noticed an vibration in the steering wheel. This was not unexpected as the stiffer motor mounts are known to cause more energy from the engine to be transmitted through the car, especially the steering wheel. The vibration is no more bothersome than the chatter from my VHR clutch so I've accepted it as normal and understand that it only lasts until about 1500 RPM in first gear. The natural vibrations of the car absorb the vibrations of the prothanes after first gear.

The second biggest change I noticed was in my shifting. I often thought that unless I really concentrated on the art of shifting, I'd never be able to have uber-smooth shifts. I was dead wrong. If you ever find yourself rocking the car after a speed bump or getting into first gear, those days are over with these motor mounts. I noticed that in between any shift be it from neutral to first or from one gear to the next, all of my shifting had become much smoother. Impress the girl sitting next to you kind of smooth. This also helps drastically with wheel hop.

Overall I recommend the motor mounts over all of the others for the sheer price. Even if you don't like the feel of them, they are so cheap it doesn't matter. I have not tried any of the other mounts but I'm sure they produce the same effects for a higher price. I would also be weary about purchasing these if you own an 04 or 05 model. Apparently according to a number of NT members, there was a modification in the motor mount design on the rear motor mount and the prothane mounts do not fit. I'm not sure how true this is, as I own a 03 but I've heard of people making modifications to assure a good fitment.

Cost of Product: 37 dollars (shipped)
Cost of Installation: 65 dollars (1 hour of shop labor)

:3_winkthu
 
#2 ·
I just did this mod two days ago. I got mine from NOPI for like $10 a set. I only added them to the front and did the labor myself. Getting two of the 4 bolts out was a PITA but I got some penetrating oil from PepBoys and the bolts came out very easy.

I immediately noticed that my idle was actually smoother than stock and shifting is much smoother. I've had bad problems with wheel hop and it's definitely less noticable now.

Good mod for the money. I can't compare the effects to those of the Alpine, NGM, KSPec, or 3m DIY but I'm happy.
 
#3 ·
I did only the front, tell me which is the rear? because I pulled a motor mount yesterday that I thought was the rear and it was shaped differentley than the front one. I did, and yes there is a difference there is a bit of vibs when in idle and the car does seem to shift a hell of alot better than it used to.
 
#6 ·
i did mine 2 days ago.... all you have to do is jack up the engine a little and wd-40 the 4 bolts that are there nad remove the mount... If you have the inserts i found it easy to wd-40 the mount inside and the inserts and get a clamp and press them suckers in tight.... then go back and install the mount. I was going to put 2 huge washers in between the insert and the brackets on either side, but i could get the washers in so i left them out. but thats it.... install takes about 20 mins to do... it is really easy to do and defintly worth the money ($15 used).

dude if you have any questions PM me, i will try to get back to you asap.
 
#7 ·
I have an 05 GT and the prothane MM will not work for the rear mount but will work for the front.
 
#8 ·
I have an 05 SE and all I have to say it F@$%ing inserts are a pain in the a$$ to get to stay in. I did some trimming on the stock one to get the inserts to stay in good enough but after all was said and done there is a remarkable improvement.
 
#9 ·
herbtea said:
I have an 05 SE and all I have to say it F@$%ing inserts are a pain in the a$$ to get to stay in. I did some trimming on the stock one to get the inserts to stay in good enough but after all was said and done there is a remarkable improvement.

all i did was lube them up pretty good and put a clamp on it so the pressure was displaced evenly. I squeezed the crap outta it to make sure it would stay in and so far so good.... The only bad thing i have to say is that they are red, and nothing in my car is red..... i want blue!
 
#11 ·
Got 'em in. Thanks for the info guys.

Holy PHUCK the factory used a lot of thread-lock on the rear mounting bolts. I had to use my torque wrench because it was the only thing with a long enough handle to give me the leverage to break the bolts free. But I got 'em on.
 
#12 ·
tibboy2003 said:
hey play did your rear one work?
no i only did the front.... but i will eventually do the rear up soon.

aLiEn_sPoReZ said:
Got 'em in. Thanks for the info guys.

Holy PHUCK the factory used a lot of thread-lock on the rear mounting bolts. I had to use my torque wrench because it was the only thing with a long enough handle to give me the leverage to break the bolts free. But I got 'em on.

glad you got them on..... my bolts where really easy to break loose.
 
#15 ·
You do not need to jack up the motor. As long as you do one mount at a time its not a prob. do NOT use oil to lube your inserts. soapy wtaer works good. If you have a few mods such as I/H/E then all you need is the front one but the rear one dosnt hurt anything but if you go FI then you want a rear MM. If you do go FI then spen a little money and go full replacement. I have the Alpine inserts off a member and love em. No complaints. Even in an auto you will tell a nice difference.
 
#16 ·
Well i didmy inserts today just the front and i noticed a big diff wheel hop is less noticable my biggest problem installing them was getting them pressed in we broke a vice trying to get them in but in the end all it took was the Oklahoma version of a hydraulic press(an 85 Iroc Z's back tire rolling over the mounts to press them in and it worked damn it).
 
#18 ·
04_GTV6 said:
Well i didmy inserts today just the front and i noticed a big diff wheel hop is less noticable my biggest problem installing them was getting them pressed in we broke a vice trying to get them in but in the end all it took was the Oklahoma version of a hydraulic press(an 85 Iroc Z's back tire rolling over the mounts to press them in and it worked damn it).
LOL! What ever works man! What ever works.
 
#21 ·
I have read all the threads on the prothane inserts that I could find. There isn't anything about what is necessary to modify the insert for the rear for an 05 tib. The reason I ask, I don't want to just do the front insert, do to my reasoning that if the front would be semi solid with an insert, that would put additional strain on the rear without an insert and would wear out the stock MM much faster. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I hope this thread is still monitored due to its age.
 
#22 ·
lll remove my mounts on my hoist at the dealership using my ingersoll impact and then use the bearing press to press them in :)