Please read carefully all of these instructions before attempting this if you have not attempted anything similar before...
First - what you will need:
* philips head screw driver
* socket wrench with a 4" to 5" extender
* 10mm socket
* 12mm socket
* shifting spanner (or 10mmm spanner if you have one)
* flat head screw driver for easing things apart
* car jack
* wheel brace
* your car stereo's security code (if you have one - the factory stereo comes with one on a business sized card)
* a cloth to wipe your hands clean
* hand cleaning fluid or good quality detergent - you will get your hands dirty!
* a camera if you want to take pics!
AND you will need to place your tib on solid and level ground before attempting this procedure... Solid ground does not mean earth, clay or sand!
1. OK - open your hood and remove the plastic stuff that covers the filter box and battery on the left hand side of the vehicle - you'll need the philips head screwdriver and the 10mm socket to do this. The philips head screws use a grommet to mount the screws in, so you will need to loosen the screws a little and pop the screw and grommet out...
You should then see something like the pic below:
2. Now undo the cable on the negative battery terminal (see '-' symbol on above pic). If you have a long 10mm socket, then you can use this, otherwise you will need to use the shifting spanner or 10mm spanner. Once that is removed, then peel back the rubber flap covering the positive terminal '+' symbol on above pic) and use the 10mm socket to undo the nut on top of the positive terminal... not the three nuts attaching to the positive terminal...
3. Now to remove the battery - this can be a bit fiddly if you haven't done it before, so there are a couple of things to watch out for...
There may be a fabric cover around the battery so remove that first. There is also a bolt that is clamping the battery to its mount at the front of the battery - this needs to be undone using the 12mm socket...
The pic below shows the bolt (circled) that clamps the battery down at the front of the battery (this pic was after the battery was removed obviously). This pic was taken from the side of the car - the front of the car is to the left of screen...
4. Now remove the battery and carefully place it to one side - do not tip the battery otherwise the battery acid might leak out onto your hands - if it does leak onto you then wash yourself under running water immediately - don't wipe your hands on your clothes otherwise you will find that after a few washes your clothes have developed nice holes in them! ;D
5. After the battery is out, stomp on the break pedal a couple of times to make certain all charge has been removed from the electrical system (hey, that's what people say...)
6. Then, carefully prise/pull of the top of the air intake hose (arrowed on the pic above). Using the 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the air intake hose to the battery mount (see arrow on pic below). Then prise the flange that the bolt went through that held the intake hose onto the battery mount so that the intake hose slips free from the battery mount...
7. Time to remove the front left wheel. Get the wheel brace and loosen the nuts on the left front wheel... If you are in doubt of the stability of your vehicle, then place some chocks (bricks or wedges of wood) behind the rear wheels of the car.
Now, get your car jack out and jack up the front left side of the car - check your user's manual if you don't know how to position the jack under the car - you don't want to mangle your body work by placing the jack under a soft part of your car!!!
As you are jacking the car up, check the stability of the car and the jack - make certain the car is not about to roll away or that the jack is about to tip over! Safety first!!
Once the car is jacked up and the left front wheel moves free from the ground, remove the wheel nuts and carefully remove the wheel. For safety purposes, it is wise to place the wheel (right way up) under the side of the car so that if the jack slips your car won't come crashing down = either on you, or on the front break disk! (The Tiburon jack is not that sturdy - it actually lowered itself during my removal of the resonator box!)
Once you have removed the wheel, you will see something like the picture below:
8. The arrow in the picture above points to the wheel arch lining. This is held on to the vehicle by a combination of 11 screws and bolts. These are located all around the wheel arch lining - 2 underneath at the front of the vehicle and the rest within the wheel arch itself.
Again, some of these screws use the same sort of grommet as in the plastic cover that we removed in the engine bay covering the filter box and battery, so you will need to loosen the screws and pop the grommets out. There are also three different screw and grommet combinations on the left front of the wheel arch - these are more difficult to remove and care should be taken as the wheel arch lining is not a very sturdy piece of material...
So be careful as you remove the screws/bolts and gently remove the wheel arch lining and place it to one side - be careful as you do not want to tear the wheel arch lining!
Below is a pic of the bolts, screws and grommets you will encounter when removing the wheel arch liner:
Below is a pic of what you will see once the wheel arch lining is removed - the resonator box that we want to take out is labelled:
9. Righto - we are just about there! In the picture above, the arrow points to a nut that has to be undone using the 10mm socket. Remove this nut.
There is also another nut on the front side of the resonator box that you will have to get to from underneath the front of the vehicle. (Some people remove the left headlight to make this easier, however you should be able to remove the nut holding the front of the resonator box using the socket wrench from underneath the vehicle.) When you are underneath the front of the vehicle to remove the front nut of the resonator box, you might notice that the cable for the left front fog light is clipped to the resonator box - use a flat head screw driver to prise this clip off the resonator box.
Once both nuts holding the resonator box to the car have been removed, and the clip holding the cable to the front fog light has been unclipped, start to gently prise the resonator box away from the vehicle and from the joint connecting it to the filter box (circled in the pic above).
This will take a little bit off manoeuvring to pry the box free, so don't rush it! You don't won't to screw anything up in case you need to put it all back together for any reason...
Once you have prised the resonator box free, you should be able to manipulate it so that it comes free attached looking like the picture below:
10. What you will now see is the hole through which the air is sucked into the air filter box (arrow in pic below) - this hole is where the gains of the now colder air from the front of the vehicle, through the wheel well, will flow through to the filter box from the modification that you have performed!
(Why do we want cold air? Well, simplistically, cold air is more dense in oxygen than warm air. We need oxygen to burn our fuel, so the more oxygen we have in our air intake, the better we burn our fuel, and hence the more power we get. Remember where the air filter hose ended before? It ended inside the engine compartment right in front of the battery - this is a very warm place to grab our air - but now, the air is brought in more from outside the vehicle where it is cooler and away from the heat of the engine bay: therefore the air is more dense with oxygen and hence the better the combustion and performance/power of the vehicle!)
It is now a matter of putting everything back together in reverse order, so:
* Put the wheel arch lining back in place using all the screws and bolts you took out.
* Carefully put the front wheel back on and place on the nuts and tighten a little (you may need to jack the car up a little bit so that the wheel clears the ground as the jack may have slipped).
* Unwind the jack until the wheel grips the ground fully.
* Tighten the wheel nuts firmly with the wheel brace - don't over tighten or you might strip the nuts.
* Put the battery back in and connect and tighten cables - make certain you have the battery in the right way around (don't ask me why I said this).
* Put the plastic cover back over the filter box and battery and screw down using all the screws that you removed. (Be careful replacing the bolt that goes into the filter box - it is at an angle and can be stripped easily if care is not taken.)
* Start your car up and hope everything runs! (If it doesn't it's not my fault!)
* Enter the code for your stereo and reset stations. Reset clock.
Now, go for a run and feel the new pep in your tib!!! Enjoy!
All care taken - no responsibility accepted
First - what you will need:
* philips head screw driver
* socket wrench with a 4" to 5" extender
* 10mm socket
* 12mm socket
* shifting spanner (or 10mmm spanner if you have one)
* flat head screw driver for easing things apart
* car jack
* wheel brace
* your car stereo's security code (if you have one - the factory stereo comes with one on a business sized card)
* a cloth to wipe your hands clean
* hand cleaning fluid or good quality detergent - you will get your hands dirty!
* a camera if you want to take pics!
AND you will need to place your tib on solid and level ground before attempting this procedure... Solid ground does not mean earth, clay or sand!
1. OK - open your hood and remove the plastic stuff that covers the filter box and battery on the left hand side of the vehicle - you'll need the philips head screwdriver and the 10mm socket to do this. The philips head screws use a grommet to mount the screws in, so you will need to loosen the screws a little and pop the screw and grommet out...
You should then see something like the pic below:
2. Now undo the cable on the negative battery terminal (see '-' symbol on above pic). If you have a long 10mm socket, then you can use this, otherwise you will need to use the shifting spanner or 10mm spanner. Once that is removed, then peel back the rubber flap covering the positive terminal '+' symbol on above pic) and use the 10mm socket to undo the nut on top of the positive terminal... not the three nuts attaching to the positive terminal...
3. Now to remove the battery - this can be a bit fiddly if you haven't done it before, so there are a couple of things to watch out for...
There may be a fabric cover around the battery so remove that first. There is also a bolt that is clamping the battery to its mount at the front of the battery - this needs to be undone using the 12mm socket...
The pic below shows the bolt (circled) that clamps the battery down at the front of the battery (this pic was after the battery was removed obviously
). This pic was taken from the side of the car - the front of the car is to the left of screen...4. Now remove the battery and carefully place it to one side - do not tip the battery otherwise the battery acid might leak out onto your hands - if it does leak onto you then wash yourself under running water immediately - don't wipe your hands on your clothes otherwise you will find that after a few washes your clothes have developed nice holes in them! ;D
5. After the battery is out, stomp on the break pedal a couple of times to make certain all charge has been removed from the electrical system (hey, that's what people say...)
6. Then, carefully prise/pull of the top of the air intake hose (arrowed on the pic above). Using the 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the air intake hose to the battery mount (see arrow on pic below). Then prise the flange that the bolt went through that held the intake hose onto the battery mount so that the intake hose slips free from the battery mount...
7. Time to remove the front left wheel. Get the wheel brace and loosen the nuts on the left front wheel... If you are in doubt of the stability of your vehicle, then place some chocks (bricks or wedges of wood) behind the rear wheels of the car.
Now, get your car jack out and jack up the front left side of the car - check your user's manual if you don't know how to position the jack under the car - you don't want to mangle your body work by placing the jack under a soft part of your car!!!
As you are jacking the car up, check the stability of the car and the jack - make certain the car is not about to roll away or that the jack is about to tip over! Safety first!!
Once the car is jacked up and the left front wheel moves free from the ground, remove the wheel nuts and carefully remove the wheel. For safety purposes, it is wise to place the wheel (right way up) under the side of the car so that if the jack slips your car won't come crashing down = either on you, or on the front break disk! (The Tiburon jack is not that sturdy - it actually lowered itself during my removal of the resonator box!)
Once you have removed the wheel, you will see something like the picture below:
8. The arrow in the picture above points to the wheel arch lining. This is held on to the vehicle by a combination of 11 screws and bolts. These are located all around the wheel arch lining - 2 underneath at the front of the vehicle and the rest within the wheel arch itself.
Again, some of these screws use the same sort of grommet as in the plastic cover that we removed in the engine bay covering the filter box and battery, so you will need to loosen the screws and pop the grommets out. There are also three different screw and grommet combinations on the left front of the wheel arch - these are more difficult to remove and care should be taken as the wheel arch lining is not a very sturdy piece of material...
So be careful as you remove the screws/bolts and gently remove the wheel arch lining and place it to one side - be careful as you do not want to tear the wheel arch lining!
Below is a pic of the bolts, screws and grommets you will encounter when removing the wheel arch liner:
Below is a pic of what you will see once the wheel arch lining is removed - the resonator box that we want to take out is labelled:
9. Righto - we are just about there! In the picture above, the arrow points to a nut that has to be undone using the 10mm socket. Remove this nut.
There is also another nut on the front side of the resonator box that you will have to get to from underneath the front of the vehicle. (Some people remove the left headlight to make this easier, however you should be able to remove the nut holding the front of the resonator box using the socket wrench from underneath the vehicle.) When you are underneath the front of the vehicle to remove the front nut of the resonator box, you might notice that the cable for the left front fog light is clipped to the resonator box - use a flat head screw driver to prise this clip off the resonator box.
Once both nuts holding the resonator box to the car have been removed, and the clip holding the cable to the front fog light has been unclipped, start to gently prise the resonator box away from the vehicle and from the joint connecting it to the filter box (circled in the pic above).
This will take a little bit off manoeuvring to pry the box free, so don't rush it! You don't won't to screw anything up in case you need to put it all back together for any reason...
Once you have prised the resonator box free, you should be able to manipulate it so that it comes free attached looking like the picture below:
10. What you will now see is the hole through which the air is sucked into the air filter box (arrow in pic below) - this hole is where the gains of the now colder air from the front of the vehicle, through the wheel well, will flow through to the filter box from the modification that you have performed!
(Why do we want cold air? Well, simplistically, cold air is more dense in oxygen than warm air. We need oxygen to burn our fuel, so the more oxygen we have in our air intake, the better we burn our fuel, and hence the more power we get. Remember where the air filter hose ended before? It ended inside the engine compartment right in front of the battery - this is a very warm place to grab our air - but now, the air is brought in more from outside the vehicle where it is cooler and away from the heat of the engine bay: therefore the air is more dense with oxygen and hence the better the combustion and performance/power of the vehicle!)
It is now a matter of putting everything back together in reverse order, so:
* Put the wheel arch lining back in place using all the screws and bolts you took out.
* Carefully put the front wheel back on and place on the nuts and tighten a little (you may need to jack the car up a little bit so that the wheel clears the ground as the jack may have slipped).
* Unwind the jack until the wheel grips the ground fully.
* Tighten the wheel nuts firmly with the wheel brace - don't over tighten or you might strip the nuts.
* Put the battery back in and connect and tighten cables - make certain you have the battery in the right way around (don't ask me why I said this).
* Put the plastic cover back over the filter box and battery and screw down using all the screws that you removed. (Be careful replacing the bolt that goes into the filter box - it is at an angle and can be stripped easily if care is not taken.)
* Start your car up and hope everything runs! (If it doesn't it's not my fault!)
* Enter the code for your stereo and reset stations. Reset clock.
Now, go for a run and feel the new pep in your tib!!! Enjoy!
All care taken - no responsibility accepted
