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Shift Cable

9.5K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  M.Kyle  
#1 ·
So, the shift cable on my 06 SE blew out after about a year of what looks like rubbing on my down pipe ...

Anyways, I got the old one pulled out (cut the old cables in the cabin and yanked em out through the engine bay), and I can't figure out how the hell to get the metal plate that goes over the rubber gasket that goes onto the firewall underneath the heater core ...

Is there some magical trick that I'm missing here? The FSM is next to useless, there's /no/ information that I can find on how to replace the shift cable, and I'm guessing if there even was a section, they'd want you to pull the entire dash and heater core ...

Any help would be great, I've been trying to figure out how to get the metal plate through for about 5 hours now... and cursing Hyundai engineers. Drunken basterds.
 
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#2 ·
Did you check to see if your car was still under warranty first? Why did you cut both cables? How did the old cable "blow out"?
 
#3 ·
The cable was rubbing on one of my turbo pipes, that's not going to be covered by warranty. Both cables frayed on the pipe, one of them almost completely so.

I cut the old cables because I couldn't figure out how to get them off of the transmission bracket while they were in the car, and it's not possible to re-use any of that anyways since the cables come from the dealer as one entire unit.
 
#4 ·
Ok, that makes sense I didn't notice you were turbo'd. I can take a look on my car, but I assume you may have figured it out by now?
 
#5 ·
That would be helpful. I ignored the car last night since I have another car to drive temporarily and was pissed off at it. I'm starting to think it may be easier to just pull the dash and heater core.
 
#6 ·
IIRC, the shift cables are attached to the firewall by a plate that is held by 2 bolts. If you take your center console out, you should be able access it. I know I can see the plate in my Elantra so it shouldn't be that different in your TIb.
 
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#7 ·
Indeed, they are. The problem is getting the metal plate slid underneath all the crap in the dash. I got the rubber gasket in, but haven't been able to get the plate back in.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Last solution to help you would probably to take your center facia off along with the HVAC control unit. That would give you plenty of room to work.

Edit: You did take ALL of the console out, including arm rest?
 
#9 ·
Yeah, center console is out, took out center facia and such, no go.

Trying to take out the bottom piece of the heater unit, seems like I'm missing a screw or other fastener though ...
 
#10 ·
It's dificult and kinda like a jigsaw puzzle but you can manipulate the plate back there.
 
#12 ·
Yep, the cables are swapped out finally. Now I just need to figure out how to keep them from rubbing on the pipe ... I'm guessing engine rock was the culprit, even though I have kspec motor mounts in. I've got the NGM billet inserts laying around, but have never gotten around to putting them in. Since those pieces of the cable don't actually move, that's the only thing that I can think of.
 
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#17 ·
Is your downpipe heatwrapped? Can do that, or perhaps try and ziptie them just enough to clear without trouble.
 
#14 ·
Pull out the center console, disconnect the cables on both ends, then to make it easier to get to the bolts, cut the cables with bolt cutters. Pull out the cables and then it's easier to get to the 2 bolts on the cabin side of the firewall.
 
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