[zeenon53]

OK, i have decided to keep my car NA and i am kinda lost at this point in what to do next. As far as mods go i have a CAI/H/E/fuel tuner/stage IV upper/stage III lower/Nology/silverstones/grounding wires/front strut bar. I don't know if i should upgrade my clutch and flywheel to handle the power, or maybe save up for cams pistons and rods? I am a little lost in what i should do after the basic mods. Point me in the right direction and i don't want F/I unless a turbo kit was to come out soon.

 

[YellowTuscRcr]

clutch/flywheel would be a good move.

 

[nick33gt]

As far as mods go i have a CAI/H/E/fuel tuner/stage IV upper/stage III lower/Nology/silverstones/grounding wires/front strut bar.

Holy Crap, let's see, I understood CAI, grounding wires, and front strut bar. Wow, I got alot to learn about tuning...

 

[ok+gt]

I didn't realize you had so many sweet mods. If you are putting down alot of power with that setup. You could go motor mounts. Then rear anti-roll. Maybe the prokit. Will the fuel tuner jive with the powerchip?

I don't think I heard much input on the cams, but that be you're best bet.

 

[Tommy]

i'd get lighteight or unerdrive pulleys, I'm deciding between these myself. You could aslo get a phenolic spacer for the intakes. if I had your mods, I'd do a cluch flywheel, but wait till you need the clutch. Do you have lightweight rims? You're getting pretty maxed out on n/a mods there

 

[wallytiburon]

Holy Crap, let's see, I understood CAI, grounding wires, and front strut bar. Wow, I got alot to learn about tuning...

CAI = Cold Air Intake
H = Headers (Exhaust manifold)
E = Exhaust
Fuel Tuner = ...Fuel Tuner (lol)
Stage IV Upper = Intake Manifold (Upper of the two pieces)
Stage III Lower = Intake Manifold (Lower of the two pieces)
Nology = Brand name for spark plug wires
Silverstones = Brand name for spark plugs

Easier? :3_winkthu

 

[cypher]

if you're really serious about saying NA and have some money to spend then I'd look at get some of NGM's upgraded engine internals. If you didn't want to go that route yet then maybe you could get a new BBTB (I see you had one on order according to your sig), maybe a brake kit then.

 

[Mines Better]

um...the stage 3 is the upper and lower together...the stage 1 is just the lower...so u dont need to say stage 3 lower...just say stage 1.

...and the stage 4...is it the upper only that takes the name? or is it that it has both?

b/c if both are included in stage 4, u could just say "i have the stage 4 IMs"....

...and if its just the upper thats included....then u can say "i have the stage 1 and stage 4" (lower and upper).

hope that wasnt too confusing...

 

[JonGTR]

First, I would go with a clutch and flywheel. If you're not having problems now, then you will soon. You don't want to be stuck with a burnt clutch and no money to fix it.
After that, go with these in order and don't cheap out on them. A good set of tires/dr's/slicks, motor mounts(front and rear), cams, P&P head(make sure they know what they're doing), pulleys.

 

[kwiktiblueGT]

First thing to get is motor mounts, no doubt, they aren't too expensive and you will stick the power you have better because you will cut down on engine rock. Rear sway bar is a must, you have no idea how much better your car will run, trust me on that. Rear stut tower bar is cheap may as well pick that up and round out your suspension. Also I would look into springs maybe, they will help give you less weight transfer, which should help with traction on the launch. Next step is expensive, it is clutch/flywheel/LSD. There are not any great LSDs out, but the phantom grip is ok for lower(under300) HP applications, so until you go turbo this will get the job done. This mod will make a huge difference to sticking power, and the light flywheel will help with power. Once you have your driveline and suspension done then you go into the motor. No help making more power when you can't use it. At this point you are gonna look into heads, tell TC and he will hook you up. Finally once you make the decision you are 100% certain NA is the way then do the pistons and rods. Cause once you put those high compression pistons on, Turbo is no longer a viable option. So lets break it down.
1) Motor mounts $300
2) Suspension $200-$500 (sway bar is a must, springs, strut bars if you want)
3) Clutch/Flywheel/LSD $1000-$2000 (depends if you install or a shop)
4) Heads $LOTS- Ask TC
5) Block $LOTS- ASK TC

Hope this helps.

 

[zeenon53]

I have been trying to avoid motor mounts because i can't see spending 300 on them, but i guess it is time. If i was going to buy a clutch/flywheel combo should i also includ the LSD? If i added the clutch/flywheel would i be losing less power from the crank to the wheels, or is that what the LSD is for? I really wasn't looking into a rear sway bar but i guess they are cheap enough, what is the main benefit from one? Should it be adjustable, and with how many positions? I am really not interested in lowering the car because there are a lot of puddles where i live and they don't mix well with the CAI. Right now i have 18" axis spyders, but i am thinking about putting my stocks back on.

 

[PewpMaster]

i'd get lighteight or unerdrive pulleys, I'm deciding between these myself. You could aslo get a phenolic spacer for the intakes. if I had your mods, I'd do a cluch flywheel, but wait till you need the clutch. Do you have lightweight rims? You're getting pretty maxed out on n/a mods there

i gotta UD pulley i can sell you... it's blue i dunno if you want blue

 

[zeenon53]

i gotta UD pulley i can sell you... it's blue i dunno if you want blue

I won't buy an UD pulley because i am afraid of burning up my alt. I have been thinking about getting a lightweight pulley though....

 

[PewpMaster]

i talked to nick boer aboot that(the guy i got mypulley from) and he said that like 1 or 2 people had that happen and it was like a freak thing... i've had them on previous cars and have never had that problem... i'm just not putting it on mine(the p ulley is still new) because i'm going FI

 

[kwiktiblueGT]

The rear sway bar will make the car handle tons better. It is really like night and day. Just order the progress rear sway bar from either road race motorsports or anywhere else that carries it. It is adjustable, but trust me you want it on the stiffer setting. That is just the right setting. It balances out your suspension from front to back so you have a more nuetral drive bias, it will eliminate alot of your underdrive and give you better feel in the corners. Trust me it is worth every dime and then some. I know how you feel with the motor mounts, it seems like a lot, but if you are going to make big power you need them. It will help alot with wheel hop, but also it will keep you from breaking the motor or the stock motor mounts. I have heard of people slamming the TB rotor back into the firewall becuase the motor had to much power and it rocked to much. As for LSD/Clutch/Flywheel, replacing the flywheel will make it alot lighter, then you loose less power because you aren't trying to push through the heavy flywheel. It will put more of your power to the wheels rather than loosing it in the rotational inertia of spinning the heavy flywheel. The LSD makes it so that they power given to the tranny is sent to both wheels rather than one. With an open differential like the stock one on the tib, it is just going to spin one wheel or the other, once the one wheel starts spinning it will just keep spinning. With a Limited Slip Differential(LSD) it will "feel" or "see" when one wheel is slipping and will transfer power from the slipping wheel to the one that has grip. There are many different types of LSDs, some viscous, come clutch type, several different, but they work under similar theory, move the power back and forth between the wheels to make sure the power is going to the wheel with traction rather than just spinning the wheel without. Also it will give you better feel in the corners when you are accelerating through corners, and it help eliminate alot of the torque steer.

 

[Freon]

I would say clutch/flywheel next, then a fuel tuner (I suggest SMT-6, it does more than just fuel for about the same price), then cams and possibly an entire worked head w/cams. As others said, some sort of motor mounts is also a good idea. You can 3M your own or pay $300 for a replacement set.

A rear swaybar, springs, and possibly dampers would also be a good move. Progress's swaybar is popular and 2-way adjustable. Eibach Prokit springs are the safest bet and a moderate drop, but you can go for more drop with Sportlines or B&G. Lowering your center of gravity flattens the car and improves grip.

 

[zeenon53]

The fuel tuner is already paid for and will be shipped with my IM....

I just did some reading on the progress rear sway bar and it seems that people who still have the stock struts are ripping the welds when the bar is set at its stiffest setting. I think the next big move i make will be getting a new suspension set-up as my stock clutch just turned 8000 miles a few days ago and still has plenty of time (knock on wood). Although it is almost like i want it to burn out so it gives me a reason to replace it.... :3_got-hoo

Then i will move to the clutch/flywheel/LSD combo. After all the possible bolt-ons are complete i will talk to TC about some major engine work. I still have the idea of a custom turbo lurking in the back of my head, hmmmm......pssshh

I am trying to keep the car as a sleeper, I didn't even tint the windows... :3_winkthu

 

[Xyloft]

suspension!!

get any of the rear sway kits (usually rear sway bar of 22mm) , or spend the money for the eibach front(26mm) rear(24mm) setup. either will make a huge difference.

springs or coilovers? cant remember if i say that in you sig.

short throw shifter?

personally i'd wait on engine internals depending on if you want to go FI or not. thats my oppinion.

thoughi hear the CAMs make a huge difference.

just a couple different options for you

 

[specialk]

there already is a turbo kit out in production. the one on teamsr.org or wutever that site is.