So your engine is ticking...
That is your valve lash adjusters making that noise - they are supplied oil by the oil pump, and are at the top of the engine, and get oil last.. If you use the proper weight oil, and a hyundai filter, you most likely will not get this noise. Using cheap oil filters bought from the store ( fram, penz, quaker) will cause this noise because the spring pressures are not correct and will allow oil to leak back from the filter and not allow full pressure to the top of the engine.. sitting for long periods of time compound this problem. Always use the proper weight oil and a Genuine Hyundai filter - if you car will be sitting for long periods of time, make sure to start the car and let it come up to operating temps every 3-4 days - Use 5W20 for winter use and 5W30 for summer use
The OEM filter is actually made by Hyundai, and is rated one of the best filters manufactured - the design is by Mann of Germany..
The TSB in question is 05-20-002, issued in July, 2005, titled "USE OF AFTERMARKET ENGINE OIL FILTERS CAUSING ENGINE KNOCKING NOISE", with an applicability of "ALL MODELS".
Here is the text of the TSB:
DESCRIPTION:
Some vehicles may experience an engine knock noise with the use of an aftermarket oil filter. Aftermarket oil filters may use different materials, construction and specifications than genuine Hyundai oil filters, which may lead to pressure variations within the engine, thus contributing to an engine knocking noise.
VEHICLES AFFECTED:
All Models
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Perform an oil change on the vehicle and replace the aftermarket oil filter with a genuine Hyundai oil filter.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Normal warranty procedures apply. This is not a warranty repair.
Read This - http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-ph8a
Here is a snippet from a Oil filter test...
Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
Penzoil
This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.
Quaker State
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil...
Best filters: AC Delco, Baldwin, Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N, Mann (OEM on BMWs, Porsche, Audi, some Volvos. Hyundai etc)
Medium: AC Delco, Napa, Wix, PureOne(?)
Crap filters: Fram, Bosch, Penzzoil & Quaker (made by Fram)
That is your valve lash adjusters making that noise - they are supplied oil by the oil pump, and are at the top of the engine, and get oil last.. If you use the proper weight oil, and a hyundai filter, you most likely will not get this noise. Using cheap oil filters bought from the store ( fram, penz, quaker) will cause this noise because the spring pressures are not correct and will allow oil to leak back from the filter and not allow full pressure to the top of the engine.. sitting for long periods of time compound this problem. Always use the proper weight oil and a Genuine Hyundai filter - if you car will be sitting for long periods of time, make sure to start the car and let it come up to operating temps every 3-4 days - Use 5W20 for winter use and 5W30 for summer use
Fram is the biggest brand because they make the cheapest filter.. it is also rated the worst filter on the market.. If you go to a "fast food" oil change place, that's what you get, a Fram or a generic Fram... The bypass valve springs are so weak, they cannot maintain oil pressure in the top of any engine. If your motor is important to you, run a OEM filter.. it is designed and built to work properly with the stock oiling system.. There is a Hyundai TSB that calls for not honoring warranties on oil related engine failures because of "cheap" filters. and describes the VLA ticking as the main cause of running "cheap" filters
The OEM filter is actually made by Hyundai, and is rated one of the best filters manufactured - the design is by Mann of Germany..
The TSB in question is 05-20-002, issued in July, 2005, titled "USE OF AFTERMARKET ENGINE OIL FILTERS CAUSING ENGINE KNOCKING NOISE", with an applicability of "ALL MODELS".
Here is the text of the TSB:
DESCRIPTION:
Some vehicles may experience an engine knock noise with the use of an aftermarket oil filter. Aftermarket oil filters may use different materials, construction and specifications than genuine Hyundai oil filters, which may lead to pressure variations within the engine, thus contributing to an engine knocking noise.
VEHICLES AFFECTED:
All Models
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Perform an oil change on the vehicle and replace the aftermarket oil filter with a genuine Hyundai oil filter.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Normal warranty procedures apply. This is not a warranty repair.
Read This - http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-ph8a
Here is a snippet from a Oil filter test...
Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
Penzoil
This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.
Quaker State
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil...
Best filters: AC Delco, Baldwin, Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N, Mann (OEM on BMWs, Porsche, Audi, some Volvos. Hyundai etc)
Medium: AC Delco, Napa, Wix, PureOne(?)
Crap filters: Fram, Bosch, Penzzoil & Quaker (made by Fram)
