More data: Scaled down? What exactly do you mean? What makes you think it's the TB? What changes have been made since the last time it ran?

 

since the last time it ran:

2 different fuel pumps, now there is a new Bosch
2 different sets of spark plugs, now running tr6's
changed the boost actuator, old one broke
took out 440cc injectors, replaced with 290's
took out photomans hypercool kit, the battery just isnt strong enough
a lot more stuff but, thats the main info

i will post a video of me turning it over

 

also, i have used the same OEM IM gasket, adding more permatex for like the last 5 times ive had the blower off/on. I used to buy a new gasket each time but it was getting to be a waste.

even if it had a leak, it should start and then die, i could only get it to start once last night and that was after turning the key for like 10 seconds.

I wont be able to get a video of the car until Monday.

-the battery is really old, but charged.

-the mafterburner seems to be working fine, green light on,

-i did take the NGM fpr completely apart and put it back together, somebody said that might have broke, but i tried the OEM fpr and same results.
-my fuel pressure gauge was reading 33-35 psi before i attempted to start it, i know thats kind of low but

trying to think of everything

 

This could be a fuse problem. Check your sensor fuse under the hood. Check all fuses for that matter.

 

will check all fuses tomorrow, i locked myself out of my garage (grrr) and the landlord is coming tomorrow to get me back in.

also, how exactly do i check the TPS and IAC sensors with a voltmeter? and which part do i test? the pieces on the throttle body itself or the pieces connected to the harness'


thanks

 

I just went through an issue that turned out to be a maf. Remember that whatever the ecu puts out depends heavily on what the maf tells it. My problem was lean, real lean, but I also know that it can work the other way, not run or super rich, sounds a bit like you.

 

yea it does. Did you end up replacing the Maf? or just clean it up?

thanks

 

ive had some maf problems cleaned it up and was good to go.. Try that and see what happens

 

usually when a MAF goes crap.....you can disconnect it and the car will start and run , but.......it could also make it no start at all......you said black smoke came out the back , so that tells me you're still too fat and it doesnt like the rich condition it's under :3_yes:

 

sorry, my computer was on hiatus.

Its freaking snowstorming up here in the northeast. I will clean the MAF and see what gives. And I am definitely still running rich but the car wont idle long enough for the changes ive made to kick in. (i think)

illl keep you guys updated,

thanks

 

k, i pulled off the MAF, it was facing the correct way, and it doesnt seem dirty at all...just a bit dusty if anything. what do you use to clean these? my next step is taking the throttle body off and checking TPS and IAC sensors.

 

Short of changing it for a good one, I don't know of any way else of checking.

 

okay, so im going to check the IAC and TPS, do i test the the end that connects to the harnesses or the pieces on the tb?
thanks

 

after reading another thread, what about the o2 sensors? could they make it not start or die out instantly?

 

no the o2 sensors dont have that much control over the ecu. they fine tune fuel trims.

edit:: think about this before you go and replace the throttle body.
how would this go bad its a spring loaded butterfly valve.

your problem is more likely a sensor of some sort, but my vote says to check the sensor fuse under the hood first.

 

i just checked both fuse boxes and found no fuses blown(damn). I didnt wanna pull the big plastic box ones under the hood fearing it may screw something else up. I pulled the tb and there was a little oil in between the gasket and tb. weird, but when i pull the blower off i leave the tb connected so who knows when some got in there

 

I doubt there is any thing wrong with the TB, the o2s wouldn't do it, remember, when you first start, you are in open loop for a period of time, so for that time, the o2s have no effect on any thing. As for checking the sensors, check the pieces themselves, the ones on the TB. I'm still voting for the maf.

 

so i am holding a voltmeter right now. Dont I need power to be going to the tps and iac to test them? how do i do that with them not connected to the harness?
thanks

 

i feel like this is a dumb question but how is this voltmeter im holding supposed to read any volts without power to the tps and iac? plus do i just touch it to the 3 prongs on each of the sensors?
thanks

 

no they must be plugged in to get power.. you want to test the output and the ground. I am not sure what the IAC is supposed to be. The TPS has data about its values all over the site.. something like 0.4 volt closed, and 4ish at WOT. you need to poke through the insulation on the output wire, and then the ground. have someone else move the accelerator (key has to be in on position, i think)

 

okay, ill have to reinstall these parts to do so.

i did just get a small reading when in 20k OHMS on the tps, it was around 1.0 with butterfly closed and slowly crept up while i opened the butterfly of the tb to almost about 2.9.

but i need to get a new tb gasket before i put this stuff back on
thanks

 

okay, well ive come to the conclusion that it is most likely one of these problems:

1) MAF crapped out(even though it has been sitting most of the time)

2)TPS failure

3)IAC failure

4)FPR failure

5) ECU failure?

I am going to go to the dealership on Wednesday and pick up new OEM gaskets for the upper manifold(surge tank) and the throttle body, just because i have reused these ones enough and want to start fresh.

In the fuse box in the engine bay, the big block fuses, can any harm be done by taking them out??? I wanted to check them but didnt want to break anything

Thanks,
Zak

 

Yes you can pull the fuses from the engine bay out...you wont damage anything.....just obviously have the car off just to be safe.

 

Dude you probably might have a vacuum leak......after you removed the Intake manifold to replace your plugs....double check to see if you tighten the IM bolts correctly in sequence...this may cause a vac leak and cause the engine to die almost instantly.

 

ill check.. one thing was that the brake booster hose had a rip in it from the intake rubbing against it probably. but that prolly wouldnt affect it too much

 

it would cause issues to some degree for sure, so get it fixed.

 

try to run the car with the MAF unplugged... it puts the ECU into a bypass mode....
my talon did the same thing.... doesn't mean it's the MAF.... could be the IAC... you have to find the resistance values of the coils (check it on 20-200 Ohms)
but try keeping your MAF in the car, just unplug the harness and see if she goes.... but i would definately check for a boost leak like the others have stated...... 9/10 times it's a boost/vacuum leak.

Mark.