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Wetsanding: A Guide

12K views 30 replies 22 participants last post by  GreatLakesTuscani  
#1 · (Edited)
So I've seen a lot of posts lately asking about how to remove something from the paint and a lot of answers have been "Oh just wetsand that." While this method will get rid of paint defects, it should be said that it's a very dangerous thing to do without any prior knowledge of wetsanding automotive paint. Now I'm no expert at wetsanding as I've thankfully never needed to do it, however I've retained this knowledge for those Just In Case scenarios. This is meant to give you a general idea of how wetsanding works. I'd still highly recommend practicing before doing it on the real deal.

Some facts on wetsanding:
Wetsanding, when done properly will remove defects faster and more uniformly than polishing and compounding.

Wetsanding never leaves a clean finish, so polishing or compounding is an absolute MUST after doing it. Be prepared to have to do this before wetsanding.

When wetsanding Automotive paint a specific automotive wet paper should be used. This is because certain wet papers have tracers in them which are grits of material that are larger than the rest of the abrasion material attached to the paper. These Tracers will leave deeper scratches in the paint and you'll be left off where you started. Meguiar's UniGrit wet paper is one of the best on the market, I'd suggest that if you feel you must wetsand.

Typically a backing pad should always be used. This prevents irregularities in the pressure being applied to the paper thus causing a uniform removal of clearcoat.

It doesn't take much. Typically for most scratches it'll never take more than 8 passes with medium pressure applied using a 2000 grit paper. Do about 3 passes then wipe the spot or squeegee it and look to see if the scratch is removed. If not, make 2 more, etc etc.

Always start with the least aggressive grit. Chances are 3000 grit can remove the scratch. If it looks really bad, it might need 2500, or 2000.

Proper soaking of the paper is a must. Most papers say 15 minutes to soak is good, but the people who regularly use the product report better results from soaking overnight or at least a few hours. Some guys add a drop or 2 of dawn dish soap in their bucket as well.

And now, here's some videos on it. They also go over Rotary and DA Polishing as well and are good videos to watch for paint correction information in general.

For the basics of other detailing methods, refer to my Noob's Guide to Detailing





 
#14 ·
Sigh... my new boss decided to "teach" me how to wetsand even though I know how. Since he said he's been detailing for 22yrs I figured I'd listen up and learn something right? Wrong...

He took an old piece of 2000 grit sand paper and a spray bottle of water. Sprayed the paper then the paint surface and went to town... no backing pad or anything. He left so many uneven scratches that I had to fix... it was really annoying. He made about 20 passes too so I know he took a good amount of clear off before I even got to it.

Then again... I shouldn't have expected much from him anyway since he is a used car salesman
 
#18 ·
thank you so much for posting this....as i really wanted to post this stuff up, but i never found the time too....this will help out so many ppl! props to you...and job well done! :)
 
#19 ·
oh...and another thing...i think another thing ppl can really learn from and gain knowledge about (useful knowledge) is the proper way to do rock chip repair....fill, wetsand, etc.
if you can find time to post this up....as i don't ...that would really help out these guys .
just throwing it out there
 
#20 ·
Detailer's secret to rock chip repair. Get a number 2 pencil with a NEW eraser on it, cut out a piece of the sandpaper to cover only the eraser. Glue it on there and then when it comes time to sand the chip you just filled, you put it on the spot, and spin it a couple times and check, spin it more as needed and check, etc etc etc. Shouldn't take much though, then hit it with a good polish.
 
#23 ·
another thing to add on this. I have proper paint and body experience and knowledge on wet sanding. so to add on this make sure you have a spray bottle on hand at all times while you are sanding. With the spray bottle makes sure to spray the spot you are wet sanding at each hand stroke, this is important as it will help you get more of a uniform look and prevent the sandpaper from becoming too abrasive and take more of the paint than what you are intending. Some people will do 2500. I personally would recommend going lower than 3000 grit. It may look like the 3000 is not enough but once you properly buff it out you will see that it was enough