I'm sorry to post a new topic even though theres a sticky specifically about this. The problem is the information on that thread is wayyyyy over my head. I plan on getting a set of rims for my car. like everyone. i also have a tc sportline wide body kit currently being installed the fenders do not hang down any lower or higher than stock, i just cant afford to have them snapped by a rub.. my question is, with my stock suspension, and sticking with 17 inch rims and tires, is there any amount of offset, even if the wheels are sticking out 6 inches, that will cause a rub. and if so, is there anything i can do without changing tire or rim size to stop rubs. My roads arent too bumpy but i do hit the occasional dips like everyone.

I am confused as to why you want to have a wide body kit installed, and yet, you have no concept to the wheel/tire combination that you want to have installed on your vehicle. I believe that you may be placing the cart before the horse on this one.
And NO, everyone is not installing a sportline body kit on their Tiburon.
We are also glad that you are getting a new set of "rims" for your vehicle, please let us know when you decide to get the rest of the wheel and show us some pics :3_usehead

 

Ok, my original post was poorly worded, let me rephrase myself. Like everyone, I am getting WHEELS on my car. Not everyone is getting TC sport body kits and, I know I'm venturing into a path less trodden because of their poor quality, but when its done right it looks great. Anyways, I do not plan on keeping the stock WHEELS on the car, however, i do plan on keeping the RIMS 17 inches and the TIRE SIDEWALL I'd like to have about 2 inches. Like I stated earlier, I have a stock suspension, and I plan to keep it that way. The wide body fenders are the same height of the original fender. My question is, and I repeat, with a stock suspension, with the rims spaced out to a hellaflush kind of stance, will I rub my fenders, and if so, what can I do to prevent this? And if you had a rub how did you guys deal with it, obviously I cannot roll my fiber glass fenders.

 

Are you lowered?

 

How much of a drop are you running, how wide / tall are the tires, how wide are your wheels....

Even though it was not mentioned if the car was lowered, I believe the point is being missed here. He states that information given about wheel/tire combinations is beyond his comprehension and does not know how wide or tall the wheels or tires are going to be. He is going to have a wide body kit put on but has no idea what wheel/tire combination to use. Open the gates and let the flood waters begin.

 

How much of a drop are you running, how wide / tall are the tires, how wide are your wheels....

 

...my question is, with my stock suspension, and sticking with 17 inch rims and tires...

Since we're getting technical, I should re-phrase my sentence.

Do you PLAN on lowering?

 

Marcel...I see you.... Wheel King is here! :3_koning:

 

so much flaming will become of you...

widebody kit...
stock wheels and height...

wanting those two together are the first fail.
buying and installing a kit before knowing what you are doing with wheels is the 2nd fail.

with a widebody kit you will most likely need wheel spacers (look them up)
a 17 or 18 inch wheel with 8 inch width would be decent, 18s look better in most people's opinion, especially with a kit.
you should drop the car (preferally on coilovers) or your kit will look out of place

 

^This

I would say to skip on the spacers and get wide and low offset wheels for flush sex...

OP: Are you prepared to spend more on your wheel/suspension setup than your bodykit both painted and installed?

 

I would have thought with a wide body kit he would want to go 18x10 with whichever offset kept him away from the coil springs. I don't know what else a wide body kit is for unless you are going to fill up the wheel well space. A 10 or 11 inch footprint from a Tiburon would be mad looking as hell.

 

Well, he hasn't been on since his initial question...so we'll have to wait and see if he can afford such a wheel...

 

It would also slow the tib down even more as more rubber is on the ground. not to mention offset away from the springs isn't all you ahve to worry about, then turning the front tires can rub really easily

 

First, install slightly stretched tires...that should take care of any possibilities of rubbing. If by the off chance you might rub, simply run camber and you're done. You should be fine with stretched tires, though...

 

And call me crazy, but do I go to the Tire Shop and tell them the tire size I want and they stretch it to fit? Are there any pros/cons to stretching? I'm an ace when it comes to sound systems, but the tire game has me spun.:3_headsha
EDIT
and is the camber adjustable on my car or would i have to buy a camber kit if such a thing exists. (my name has newbie under it for a reason i guess)

 

17x9 wheels 0-+20 offset. 235/45r17 tire.

 

And how much are you paying to wrap your wheels in rubber? I'm only a student so a little over 100 bucks a wheel is too high for me

 

I wrapped my 18x8 wheels in 225x40 Hankooks with a +40 offset, but I am dropping it 1.1 inch on stock fenders and no fender rolling. It's not to the edge, but I won't rub either.
I am not sure exactly how much more width you get under the fender with a wide body kit, but the 17x9 wheels with 235x45 rubber that duds03 mentioned should do the trick nicely. They will be stretched on the wheel but not to the max. The +20 offset will bring the combination just out to the edge and you should be pretty safe from rubbing, you should be actually splitting the extra 2 inches over stock width from the centerline of the wheel.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong.

 

Zero Offset

The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive

The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative

The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.

Again Information from TireRack.

17x9 wheel w/ 0 offset.
9" will be split directly in the middle.
+20 offset: 94.3mm of rim on the outside or street side; 134.3mm of rim will be on the inside.

You can figure out how it will clear by measuring suspension. from bottom of suspension to hub. from there you can see where your offset has to be. if you have 5" of room then you can run a 17x9 +15mm offset without rubbing on suspension.

Understand?

 

215=8.46 tire, perfect for 7" wide wheel
225=8.85" tire, usually used on 7.5 and 8" wheels
235=9.25" tire, usually used on 8-9" wheels

You get the picture. 18x8 a good tire is 225/40 for proper tire fitment.


Now, if your trying to be stance worthy then you will put a 205 on a 8.5 wheel or a 215 on a 9" wheel and be slammed and rubbing your lip on your fender instead of tire.

Tire Info from Tire Rack
If you ever have any type of question about tires I would look at Tire Rack they have excellent information on their website and you can know more about tires then you will ever want to.

 

Thank you for the reinforcement. Although, to avoid rubbing, you wouldn't install a "recommended" tire onto a wheel.

 

Of course and no but I also wouldn't want a 205 on a 8" wheel. Recommended is 5.5"-7.5" for a 205 I say if you go over that you are just asking for a tire to be dismounted.

 

Do not "stretch" your tires! This is completely UNSAFE and probably will lead to some sort of tire failure. Every single tire manufactured has a minimum/maximum wheel requirement that should never be ignored. Looks are open to interpretation. I personally don't like it, but to each their own. You gain nothing for performance and for the little bit of space you gain, it's just not worth the potential problems.

 

here are some safe limits as Shadow Blue said Slight stretch is okay for Daily Driving. 215/45 on a 8" wheel is a stretch technically and is okay by Manufacture specs. 215/45 on a 9" wheel is an extreme stretch and is not a safe daily driving setup.

 

If he didn't understand the wheel threads that are readily available on the site, I doubt he'll understand any of what you pasted. He asked general questions which have been answered and until he/we know his wheel specifications, none of the additional information is necessary...nor can we give specific information/sizes...

 

If you look at who I quoted he said correct me if I am wrong:
The +20 offset will bring the combination just out to the edge and you should be pretty safe from rubbing, you should be actually splitting the extra 2 inches over stock width from the centerline of the wheel.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong.

So I was providing him with the correct info. +20 would sink in the wheel -20 would bring the wheel out.

So the additional information was necessary.
Good day sir. :3_nosthum

 

Slight stretching is very safe...extreme stretching is not, as I previously stated.

 

here are some safe limits as Shadow Blue said Slight stretch is okay for Daily Driving. 215/45 on a 8" wheel is a stretch technically and is okay by Manufacture specs. 215/45 on a 9" wheel is an extreme stretch and is not a safe daily driving setup.

This is exactly what I was talking about! Thank you!

 

With all do respect, I have to disagree. Anything beyond recommendation does not allow the bead to seat properly. I am a service manager at a Firestone store and I've seen plenty of "educational" videos from slight stetches to extreme stretches and I've seen failures during both examples. Granted these were controlled tests but none the less they were in real life situations.

 

Recommendation like I posted above is a slightly stretch tire and is within the manufacture spec. If the tire doesn't seat well while being in that range then why would they offer it?

215/45r17 on a 8" wide tire is technically a stretch and the Manufacturers say that is okay so your saying that these are not safe?

 

I understand, Duds. I thought you were giving info to the OP but, to the contrrary, were informing incorrect posters. Thank you

 

Right now im open to alot. like i said, i want to keep the diameter at 17, the width can be anywhere from 7 to 9 inches and i really want them to be gun metal, which i think will go nicely with the carbon fiber spoiler and a few other things i have. I cant find good sites with the rims I want. I really want the BK racing 983's? I think thats what they are. although the BK333's are very similar. Do they ship worldwide?

 

With those wheels (high offset) you'll have to be careful of not getting them wide enough to hit your struts. These are not ideal for a fender flare setup. Lower offset wheels will, definitely, be a better choice to fill the extra space provided by your fender flares.

 

So are you saying i should get some lower offset rims and then space them to my liking?

 

No...I'm saying get lower offset wheels and calculate the wheel's width so you DON'T need spacers. If, by chance, you need spacers hopefully they'll be within 5-10mm...

 

Ok, youve helped me out this much, can you do me one more thing. If i have stock rims. And the ones on the car are actually the step down 16 inch rims, how big of an offset would i need to be "hellaflush" if the flares add about 1.75 in, or almost 45 mm