The amp will work it's butt off with two 500 watt Alpines. The Kickers are good, but the Alpines are better. What kind of box are you going to run them in? I would do the DVC's, because they give you more wiring options. You also have to hook up both coils or you will not get all of the sound out of them. I would just do the DVC's in 2 ohm and stick with that as your current plan. Now if you would like to upgrade your amp then you can look at it in a whole other way!

 

personally, i think 1 12" and 1 10" would give you ideal bass - do you still have your type R? problem is you wouldn't want to drive them with the same amp/signal cuz you'd want the 12's freq. to be lower - i don't think you have enough amp there to drive 2 subs anyway though...

I have a Jensen mono amp that would drive a 10" nicely i'd sell ya cheap if ya want it - it's just sitting in my closet...

 

I can only fit a pair of 10" subs in my Titan King Cab to have enough air space in a custom box under the rear seat.
What about either of these? I'm partial to Audiobahn amps as I've never had a problem with them, and the 3-way protection is nice.

http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOBAHN-A8000...QitemZ180245349074QQihZ008QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOBAHN-A1600...QitemZ190222096962QQihZ009QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

IT should be noted that running your subs at 4 ohms, and the amp at 2 can cause damage, and thus you should only run them at equal resistances, i.e. 2 and 2 , or 4 and 4.

 

Your amp will only "run at" whatever impedance is presented to it by the speakers. That will depend on the voice coil configuration and how they're wired.

 

stick with one 12" alpine type r. (very loud speaker). you can run that to the 800 watt amp if you bridge the connections on the back of the speaker. One thing i recommend is to get a more powerful amp so you arent pushing the amp to the limits. second thing to do with the type r is to give it its recommended space because its deprived of air if not. make a solid 1/2" box out of mdf and just go to the window department and get caulking. (dont use nails when you build a box, use screws)

 

I can only fit a pair of 10" subs in my Titan King Cab to have enough air space in a custom box under the rear seat.

 

Not always, while amps will run at whatever ohm the speakers are at, if you try and run a 4ohm amp with 2 ohm speakers you can damage the hardware from the impedance mismatch.

 

Oh, I gotcha now. The way I read your post, I thought you were saying you could, in a way, run your amp at whatever impedance you specified regardless of the drivers and wiring configuration.

So yes, I concur. If your amp is not stable at whatever load you present to it, it could very well give up the magic smoke. Although many of the "overbuilt" amps only rated for a given stability could easily handle lower. Arc Audio SE, and old school Fosgate, Orion, USAmps, etc come to mind.

 

I just want to point out to you that Audiobahn went out of business. I am very much in the same boat with you as I had my last car completely done in Audiobahn; still have my 18 that I hope to put in the Tib one day. Might want to think of that before you buy!

 

as for the OHM resistance, you don't have to match. What matters is that the OHMs presented by the speaker setup is NOT lower than what the amp can handle. Why, i'm not sure. So your amp is 2 ohm stable. That means you can wire in any configuration of 2,4,8 etc.... however, you can't wire them into a 1ohm configuration. If the amp is stable at 1ohm, you can wire speakers in any ohm setup. You just lose power to the speakers as your resistance increases. Most amps include ratings of watts at each ohm setup.

 

just make sure your amp is 2 ohm stable. if its not a cheap brand it will be.

then wire the subs into a 2 ohm load.

and since most subs are dual voice coil, and if you are buying 2... then buy the dual voice coil subs with 2 ohms per voice coil. it would say 2ohm + 2 ohm or something. then you wire each sub in parallel to give each sub a 4 ohm resistance, then wire the 2 subs in series to give it a total 2 ohm resistance.

more questions? post here or PM me

 

How's this look?

Audiobahn
A16000V 3200 WATT MONOBLOCK INTAKE SERIES AMP
3200W x 1 MAX @ 2 Ohms
1600W x 1 RMS @ 2 Ohms
800W x 1 RMS @ 4 Ohms
Class A/B MOSFET Circuitry PWM MOSFET
Power Supply 2 Ohm Mono Stable


ALPINE SWR-1022D TYPE-R SUBWOOFER 10" CAR AUDIO 2-OHM
10" component subwoofer
Dual 2-ohm voice coils
Frequency response: 26-500 Hz
Power handling: 50-500 watts
RMS Peak power: 1,500 watts

And wired like this:

 

This should work fine. Get 2 Alpine 2-ohm dual voice coil subs, wire it up like that diagram shows for a 2-ohm final impedance, and run a mono amp that is 2-ohm stable for at least 800 watts. (The amp here is fine being run at about 60%)

 

this way will work just fine with 2ohm subs

this way how ever would be using only 1 of the 2 voice coils. if you wired the other coil in parallel it would make the circuit 1 ohm and destroy the amp. if you wired in the other coils in series than you will have a 4 ohm circuit. so just run the two 2 ohms. or run one 12 parallel and get a lot more bass.

 

Dammit.

Okay, how about I get two:

Alpine PAIR SWR-1042D 10" Dual 4 Ohm SUB Woofers, and two mono 2ohm stable amps, and wire them like this. That way I'll use both the voice coils and have 2 ohms at the amp?

 

that would hit retarded hard man. that would be the way i would go.

 

One last try before I run dual amps. Is there a way I could use:

NEW KICKER 06-ZX1000.1 3000 WATT MONO CAR AMPLIFIER AMP
1000 X 1 RMS @ 2 ohm 3000 WATT PEAK OUTPUT!

It has a left & right input, and a left & right output, and still run the two alpine DVC 10" subs using both voice coils on each sub and having 2 ohms at the amp. Sorry for being so dense. I'll figure this out eventually.

 

i would have to read about it but as long as they are both low inputs then it should work

 

I'd rather mount one amp on the amp rack than two amps if this will let me run both voice coils on two 10" 4 ohm dvc's. But will it still be 2ohms at the amp?

* 1000 X 1 RMS @ 2 ohm
* 3000 WATT PEAK OUTPUT!
* Gain and crossover frequency control
* Top Mounted controls make it easy to adjust this amp at any time
* protection light indicator
* Mosfet Powered
* Soft Start turn-on
* Protection Circuitry
* S/N Ratio: >95 dB
* Built in crossovers: 24 dB per octave low-pass crossover (50 - 200 HZ)
* Bass Boost (0-18 dB)
* 12 dB defeat able sub sonic filter
* Free remote bass boost
* Frequency response 20-20,000 Hz
* 100A Fuse rating
* Equalizer for bass w/ variable gain that goes up to 18dB
* Dimensions: (LxHxD)20" x 2-1/8" x 9-5/8"
* Class D Mono 1 channel Design
* RCA/Speaker Inputs

 

those are inputs and outputs to piggyback amps.... either get two 4 ohm SINGLE voice coil woofers and bring them together down to 2 ohms or get two 2 ohm DUAL voice coils to do the same.... generally speaking any MONO block amp that has two sets of wire connectors means that the connectors are SHARED.... so if you try to plug in two 2 ohm loads you'll end up bringing it down to 1 OHM and you'll blow the crap out of your amp. i hope that helps.

Mark.

 

I've ordered the box for the:
Two Alpine SWR-1042D
500 rms, 1500 peak
4 ohm

So now I'm down to deciding on the two mono amps.

2008 KICKER ZX500.1 500 WATT MONO AMP
2 ohms: 500 watts RMS x 1 chan.


2008 KICKER ZX400.1 400 WATT MONO AMP
400 Watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm


I'd prefer the 500 rms, but I can get the 400 rms amp for about $60. less each than the 500.
The subs are rated at 500 rms, but I'm thinking two of the 400 rms amps would push them fine. If the 500 amp are pushing them borderline to their 500 rms limit all of the time, I'd feel better with the 400 amps and save some money. Does this seem doable, or does everyone think the 500 would be better?

I'm gonna' use two of the amps, and two of the subs wired like this:

 

I've ordered the box for the:
Two Alpine SWR-1042D
500 rms, 1500 peak
4 ohm

So now I'm down to deciding on the two mono amps.

2008 KICKER ZX500.1 500 WATT MONO AMP
2 ohms: 500 watts RMS x 1 chan.


2008 KICKER ZX400.1 400 WATT MONO AMP
400 Watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm


I'd prefer the 500 rms, but I can get the 400 rms amp for about $60. less each than the 500.
The subs are rated at 500 rms, but I'm thinking two of the 400 rms amps would push them fine. If the 500 amp are pushing them borderline to their 500 rms limit all of the time, I'd feel better with the 400 amps and save some money. Does this seem doable, or does everyone think the 500 would be better?

I didn't read the whole thread, but why have you decided to go with an individual amp for each sub? It would be cheaper and easier to install just one mono amp for both subs.

Also, FYI... the Type-Rs really like power, meaning they open up with more than 500wrms. They can handle up to 1000wrms safely if you know what you are doing. 400wrms will work, but don't have high expectations.

and they like ported boxes too. It's generally known that Type-R and sealed don't go well together.

 

yup run two 2ohm 10s in series for the two ohm final. or better yet, find a 1 ohm stable amp two 4 ohm subs. run the subs parallel to themselves then to each other.

 

an amps quality is related to the manufacturer, not the ohms its capable of running at. A great one ohm stable amp is better than a decent 2 ohm stable amp.....

 

So what you want to do is run both 10's off the mono amp. I would wire them in series. If they are 4ohm dvc subs, wiring them in series will bring you to a 4ohm load. So your amp will put out 800w at 4ohms rms. It would be a little underpowered for two subs but that would still sound good and be on the safe side. If you wanted to run them in parallel, them it would be 2ohms per sub and connected together would give you a 1ohm load. That your amp cannot handle. I used to run 2 JL 13w6's which are 4ohm dvc subs. my jl amp is rated at 1000w at 2ohms and 640 watts at 4ohms. Now when I connected both the subs in a series connection, they were only recieving a 640watts combined. Now the subs are rated at 500w rms each. So I was severly underpowing the system with it setup that way. It sounded louder with one than it did with two. Reason for that is one sub can run at a two ohm load and recieve that 1000w but two can only get 320w to each sub. It really depends on what kind of music you listen to but I would sugget getting a alpine type-x sub if your looking just for one. One sub is plenty and some can play louder that two subs. It all depends on what type of amp/sub/box combo you get. My sub is a 13.5in sub and it has blown away other two sub systems as far as sound quality which is what i was trying to achieve. Let me know if you have any other questions or shoot me a pm and i'll answer as soon as i can.

 

I'm having a box built for my titan. It can only fit two 10" subs with 6" or less depth for air space. The builder is saying I should buy one of these Sundown SAE-1000D amps as other Titan owners with his box have done. He says this amp is great and will fit in the amp rack on the titan boxes he's built (600 of them). Now I'm back to the questions. How can I wire two dual 4ohm + 4 ohm 10" subs using all the voice coils and match 1 ohm at this 1 ohm stable amp (diagram please).

Sundown SAE-1000D
RMS power, 1 ohm mono------------------------1000W x 1CH
SPECIFICATIONS:

* 1000 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm
* 600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms
* 300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms
* 0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
* 10 Hz - 350 Hz Frequency Response
* > 90 dB S/N Ratio
* 4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
* Linkable to another SAZ-1000D for 1800 watts @ 2 ohms
* 35 Hz - 300 Hz adjustable 24dB Low-Pass Crossover
* 10 Hz - 60 Hz adjustable 24dB Subsonic Filter
* 0 - 180 degree adjustable phase shift
* 0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost with 45 Hz center frequency
* Wired Remote Control unit included
* 3x 30 Amp Internal Fuses
* 4 AWG power and ground terminals **
* 11.5" L x 10.2" W x 2" H

2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel
Connecting the voice coils of each driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 1.5 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 1 Ohm
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.5 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.38 Ohms

 

You have to run them in parallel to achieve the 1ohm load. I will try and find in my manual exactly how to hook them up.

 

seem my diagram on previous post #33
Will this be ok for the two 600 rms kicker solobarics, and does this 1 ohm am look alright?

 

That would be fine for the subs. As far as the amp, i have never heard of it but the specs look pretty good.

 

Sundown is a great brand. They are a bit more known on the SPL circuit, but definitely rock solid amps. Great overall company as well.

That amp will match up well with the R's @ 1 ohm.

 

The Alpine R's needed almost 7" mounting depth, and wouldn't fit the box, so I'm going with the KICKER CVX10 D4 10"

1200 watts max power handling
600 Watts RMS power handling
87.2 DB sensitivity 24 – 500 K frequency response
5 15/16" mounting depth
9 1/4" cut out diameter
sealed box .8 – 3.00 cubic feet

And the Sundown SAE-1000D amp was only $309. shipped from Torrent compared to $399. everywhere else. And the guy that's built 600 boxes for Titans says the Sundown SAE-1000D fits perfest in the amp rack on the box.

Unless someone can suggest two better subs than the KICKER CVX10 D4 10" that are 10" 4 ohm dvc's, I'm going to order them soon.

Thanks for everyone's help. My tib was easy with one 12" alpine r', but even though I've wired several HU and amps, I've never done more than one sub. Years ago I even remembered OHM's law.

 

i am confused... you ahvent bought the subs yet? or the amp? you are definitely looking for two subs?

then get dual voice coil, 2ohms+2ohms. that means 2 voice coils at 2 ohms a piece. then get a 1000watt @ 2 ohm sub.

looking for 1 sub?

then get dual voice coil 4ohms + 4 ohms, 2 voice coils at 2 ohms a piece. then get a diesel sub and 1000watts, or anywhere between 4 and 800watts, whatever you are willing to spend.

i still highly reccommend the type-R's. for the money i believe they are the best you can get. they work well with smaller boxes, too they dont need the volume most need. sealed is very clean, and ported is VERY loud. i have a box with a cover on it that you can switch between the 2...

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7008533&type=product&id=1099392684206

that is the 10" option, im sure you can find one for 12"

and here is a single box... (and the one i happen to have...)

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7008542&type=product&id=1099392684268

an old picture... i've since upgraded to an 800 watt amp...

 

i am confused... you ahvent bought the subs yet? or the amp? you are definitely looking for two subs?

i still highly reccommend the type-R's. for the money i believe they are the best you can get. they work well with smaller boxes, too they dont need the volume most need. sealed is very clean, and ported is VERY loud. i have a box with a cover on it that you can switch between the 2...

You missed the earlier posts in this thread. I had a 12" Alpine R' in a sealed box with a 800rms mono amp, and a 600rms 4 ch to my 6." and 6 x 9" alpine speakers in my tib. This is for my Nissan Titan. I have the king cab and the best made box (goes under rear seat) only allows for two 10" subs with a mounting depth of less than 6." and an amp rack. The alpine r' 10" subs needed 7." to fit, si I have to get the KICKER CVX10 D4 10" because the only need 5 15/16" mounting depth.

I'm getting the KICKER CVX10 D4 10"
1200 watts max power handling
600 Watts RMS power handling
87.2 DB sensitivity 24 – 500 K frequency response
5 15/16" mounting depth
9 1/4" cut out diameter
sealed box .8 – 3.00 cubic feet

And the Sundown SAE-1000D amp
RMS power, 1 ohm mono------------------------1000W x 1CH
SPECIFICATIONS:
1000 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm

Here's the Titan Box, and here's the back of my tib. My 12" Alpine R' & sealed box sat next to my trunk mount metahnol.