[eagleprime]

For what it's worth, the plugs should fit, they have the same resistor value and aside from having a smaller gap, the BKR5EGP "should work" in the Delta. It might run poorly due to the smaller gap, but it should run.

 

[Steve 710]

Did not pay attention I had plugs wires coil oil filter oil and and antifreeze and gasket just paid what he said and left like I said my fault for not checking never should’ve assumed that they know how to do there job

 

[eagleprime]

See above. I compared the specs. Specs-wise they should work, as long as the plug wires actually made contact with the top of the plug.

 

[eagleprime]

...which they might not, because the BKR5EGP look to be over a centimeter short by visual inspection.

This might be your problem. Maybe you were not, in fact, getting spark.

 

[Steve 710]

That’s what I’m thinking 🤔 I’m going to order the right plugs they don’t even have them in stock so I’m thinking he just gave me what they had I will keep you updated as I make progress thanks for your time

 

[The_Evenger]

I just pulled the plugs back out and checked the numbers they gave me Nkg BKR5EGP the right plugs are NGK PFR5N-11 just wondering if that could be my problem didn’t even think to check them when they gave them to me figured they would give me the right parts pisses me off it’s alot of work to get to the back ones my own fault for not looking guess what won’t happen again

Searching for that on RockAuto gives me an NGK 7090, which is listed as a compatible spark plug for the 2.7. It's not as nice as Iridium, but it's still Platinum & should last at least 60k miles.

 

[chase206]

they gave me Nkg BKR5EGP the right plugs are NGK PFR5N-11 just wondering if that could be my problem

Both those plug types will work just fine. BKR5EGP are normal platinum while PFR5N-11 are laser platinum. The main differences being the gap, the electrode size and expected life.

BKR5EGP
gap: 0.039"
electrode size: 0.6mm
40k mile life

PFR5N-11
gap: 0.043"
electrode size: 1.0mm
90k mile life

You can use either plug without difficulty, you'll just be replacing the BKR5EGP sooner than later. I prefer a tighter gap like 0.038-0.040" on my N/A car so that leaves room for wear before going too far outside of the allowable gap.

 

[Steve 710]

Searching for that on RockAuto gives me an NGK 7090, which is listed as a compatible spark plug for the 2.7. It's not as nice as Iridium, but it's still Platinum & should last at least 60k miles.

Okay thanks

 

[Steve 710]

well I replaced the spark plugs with the factory recommended ones got a OEM crankshaft position sensor replaced wires and coil pack tore it apart and checked the timing everything was lined up perfectly still won’t start definitely getting spark but it seems like the plugs are getting flooded with gas anybody have any idea what to do thanks

 

[The_Evenger]

Make sure your ignition wires are on the correct coils. Coil order from firewall to bumper is 3/6, 2/5, 1/4. Cylinder firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6. 1 starting on the firewall side of the engine, closest to the belt. 2 being on the bumper side of the engine, closest to the belt. Then repeating in that order.
1-3-5
2-4-6

 

[Steve 710]

They are. I ordered a camshaft position sensor and a fuel pressure regulator hopefully that works

 

[The_Evenger]

It should still run without a camshaft position sensor, it'll just run in batch injection instead if independent.

Also check to make sure your throttle position sensor and idle air control valve connectors aren't switched. They have the same plug & sit right next to each other, so they're easy to mix up.

 

[eagleprime]

Well, let us know if it does - the crank position sensor is required for the ECU to provide spark, the cam position sensor is used for fuel, and the fuel pressure regulator is needed for you to have fuel coming out the injectors at sufficient pressure.

You've claimed to have both, and even having tried starting spray, which should at the very least cause a backfire.

To make a combustion engine run, you need fuel, you need spark, you need compression and you need a way to clear the exhaust gases out of the cylinder.

Since the starter spray didn't even produce a backfire and you're certain you've got spark, what remains is compression.

Do a compression test on the front bank.

 

[Steve 710]

They are not mixed up I made sure to label everything that I took off

 

[Steve 710]

I will do a compression test if those parts don’t work the thing is that it ran before I started working on it just wasn’t running good just missing so I figured plugs,wires and coil and it would run better now I have nothing

 

[eagleprime]

I will do a compression test if those parts don’t work the thing is that it ran before I started working on it just wasn’t running good just missing so I figured plugs,wires and coil and it would run better now I have nothing

Did you check the status of your timing belt - is it still there timing away or has it perhaps gone bald or completely left the chat?

 

[Steve 710]

I replaced the belt 6 months ago but yes I did take it apart and made sure all of the timing marks were lined up

 

[jeffreyalbright]

@Steve 710 have you verified it has spark? Also there are some fuses in the engine compartment that could have blown. So check the fuses in the engine compartment.

 

[eagleprime]

I replaced the belt 6 months ago but yes I did take it apart and made sure all of the timing marks were lined up

Doesn't mean it can't have snapped, though it does make it unlikely. Visual verification of the belt moving and being tight would be preferable. Just removing the top timing cover bolts and taking a peek inside with a flashlight would be enough.

 

[Steve 710]

@Steve 710 have you verified it has spark? Also there are some fuses in the engine compartment that could have blown. So check the fuses in the engine compartment.

Did that already thanks