HI EVERYONE IM BACK I HAVE NOT FORGOT TO UPDATE YOU GUYS ON WHAT HAPPENED WITH MY AC SYSTEM. ANYWAYS ITS BEEN A YEAR SINCE LAST POST I HAVE NOT GONE TO COLLEGE YET FOR THIS BUT HAVE LEARNED ENOUGH TO TRY THE REPAIR. MY AC HAD FAILED NO COLD AIR AND I WAS TOLD BY DEALERS THERE WAS A LEAK IT WOULD NOT HOLD A CHARGE THEY WANTED
$1000 PLUS TO FIX AND THATS WITH USED COMPRESSOR PARTS AND LABOR. I HAD GONE ABOUT 3 YEARS WITH NO AC FINALLY THIS YEAR DECIDED IT WAS TIME. SINCE MY SYSTEM HAD A LEAK ALL THE FREON HAD LEAKED OUT IN THE THREE YEARS THAT IT WAS NOT IN USE. JUST TO MAKE SURE I TOOK IT TO A DEALER HAD THEM CHECK IT AND EVACUATE/VACUUM THE SYSTEM. I FIGURED START WITH THE LEAST EXPENSIVE PARTS FIRST SEE WHAT HAPPENS AND IF SO THEN FORK THE CASH AN BUY A NEW COMPRESSOR OR WHEREVER THE LEAK IS COMING FROM.
FIRST MY COMPRESSOR CLUTCH WAS NOT TURING WHEN THE AC BUTTON INSIDE THE CAR WAS ENGAGED THIS COULD MEAN ONE OF TWO THINGS WORST CASE COMPRESSOR IS SHOT/ CLUTCH IS LOCKED. OR THE REASON I THOUGHT WAS SINCE THERE WAS A LEAK AND NO FREON IN THE SYSTEM THE COMPRESSOR SHUTS ITS SELF OFF TO PREVENT FURTHER DAMAGE.
SECOND THE DEALERS COULD NOT FIND THE LEAK THEY SUSPECTED O-RINGS SO I WOULD DEF TRY THAT BECAUSE O-RINGS ARE CHEAP GOT THEM FOR $12.99 AT AUTOZONE THIS WAS FOR A WHOLE KIT DIFFERENT SIZES. PART NUMBER MT2683. I ALSO BOUGHT PAG OIL FOR R134 SYSTEM TO APPLY TO THE O-RINGS BEFORE BEING INSTALLED.
THIRD IVE BEEN TOLD AND HAVE READ THAT ANYTIME YOU OPEN THE SYSTEM TO PLUG THE OPENINGS ASAP BECAUSE DIRT AND MOISTURE CAN CONTAMINATE THE SYSTEM SO MAKE SURE TO DO THAT AND ANYTIME YOU OPEN MAJOR PARTS OF THE SYSTEM OR DO MAJOR AC REPAIR TO ALWAYS CHANGE THE DESICCANT BAG IN THE RECEIVER-DRIER ITS A LONG BAG TUBE LOOKING THING. THIS IS ATTACHED TO THE SIDE OF THE CONDENSER
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183796
THE LINK ABOVE EXPLAINS HOW TO DO THIS.
ALSO ANOTHER CHEAP PART COST $8.99 AT AUTOZONE PART NUMBER RD10972BC
NOW TO THE INSTALL I CHANGED 7 O-RINGS IN TOTAL THERE WERE I THINK 3 THAT I DID NOT GET ONE REASON WHY THE PLACE WAS VERY HARD TO GET TO AND THE OTHER WAS I DIDN'T WANT TO OPEN UP THE INSIDES OF THE COMPRESSOR. THE O-RINGS THAT I DID NOT REPLACE WERE AT THE EXPANSION VALVE WHICH I THINK THERE ARE 2 THERE ONE FOR EACH TUBE HIGH SIDE LOW SIDE. AND THE OTHER WAS THE BIG DOUBLE SQUARED GASKET INSIDE THE TOP PLATE OF THE COMPRESSOR. THE O-RINGS I DID REPLACE WERE ONE RING AT THE SUCTION HOSE CONNECTION CLOSE TO THE LOW PRESSURE CAP BY THE FIRE WALL ITS A 10MM NUT. ONE ON THE COMPRESSOR SUCTION HOSE CONNECTION 12MM BOLT. ONE ON THE COMPRESSOR DISCHARGE HOSE CONNECTION 12MM BOLT. ONE AT THE CONDENSER DISCHARGE HOSE CONNECTION 10MM NUT. ONE AT THE CONDENSER SAME LOCATION AS THE DISCHARGE HOSE CONNECTION, I DONT KNOW WHAT THIS LINE IS CALLED BUT ITS THE ONE RIGHT NEXT TO IT ALSO 10MM NUT. THEN TWO O-RINGS BIG ONES AT THE RECEIVER-DRIER CAP THIS IS OPENED USING AN ALLEN WRENCH DONT REMEMBER THE SIZE BUT ITS THE BIGGEST ONE IN MY ALLEN WRENCH KIT. ADDED PAG OIL TO ALL RINGS TIGHTENED ALL NUTS/BOLT VERY TIGHT. THE OLD O-RINGS WERE VERY DRY AND DID LOOK COMPRESSED AND FLAT NOT BUMPY AND FAT LIKE THE NEW ONES. I DID REMOVE THE CONDENSER TO GET BETTER ACCESS TO THE DESICCANT BAG .THE RECEIVER-DRIER BAG THAT WAS IN PLACE WAS VERY BLACK AND WET IT HAD GROWN TO ALMOST DOUBLE ITS SIZE FELT SPONGY. I WILL UPLOAD PICS OF THAT BAG TOMORROW THE NEW ONE THAT WENT IN WAS WHITE AND VERY LIGHT, AS SOON AS I CUT THE PLASTIC BAG THAT IT CAME IN, I DROPPED IT RIGHT IN AND CLOSED IT WITH THE CAP TIGHTENED WITH THE HUGE ALLEN WRENCH AND FINISHED INSTALLING THE CONDENSER BACK IN ITS PLACE. YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE THE RADIATOR TO GET THE CONDENSER OUT YOU MIGHT HAVE TO JUST LOOSEN THE LEFT HEADLIGHT AND ALSO REMOVE A PLASTIC TRIM PANEL BY THE CONDENSER.
NOW THAT THIS REPAIR WAS DONE I HAD TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER CAUSE I DONT HAVE THAT $1000 MACHINE THAT VACUUMS THE SYSTEM/ CHARGES THEN FILLS IT UP WITH FREON. DEALER TOLD ME NO PROBLEMS, SO FAR THE SYSTEM DID HOLD A CHARGE THE FIRST TIME AND THEY FILLED IT WITH ABOUT 2 POUNDS OF FREON. AC IS BLOWING VERY COLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I HAD FORGOTTEN HOW THIS FELT CAUSE IT HAS BEEN SO LONG WITHOUT AC. ONCE I GOT HOME I PUT SOME BUBBLE LEAK LIQUID ON ALL THE CONNECTIONS AND CHECKED FOR LEAKS SAW NO BUBBLES COMING OUT ANYWHERE GOOD SIGN SO FAR. I WILL KEEP EVERYONE UPDATED TO LET YOU KNOW IF THIS WORKED BUT SO FAR SO GOOD. IM CONFIDENT MY AC IS NOW FIXED BECAUSE THE FIRST TIME I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO GET IT RECHARGED IT WOULD NOT HOLD A CHARGE AND HIS GAUGES DID INDICATE A LEAK. ANOTHER GOOD SIGN I STATED EARLIER ABOVE THAT THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH DID NOT ENGAGE, NOW WHEN THE AC BUTTON INSIDE THE CAR IS PRESSED AND THE AC SYSTEM IS TURNED ON THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH IS SPINNING/ENGAGING SO LOOKS LIKE NO NEED TO BUY A NEW COMPRESSOR SO FAR. WELL I WILL POST BACK IN A WEEK OR TWO TO LET EVERYONE KNOW.
HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE OUT WHO DOESN'T KNOW WHERE TO START TO REPAIR THIER AC SYSTEM. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY THIS IS JUST MY EXPLANATION OF WHAT I DID TO REPAIR MY SYSTEM. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BEFORE STARTING ANY WORK ON THE AC SYSTEM TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER AND HAVE THEM EVACUATE THE SYSTEM SO THAT THERE IS NO FREON INSIDE. DO NOT OPEN THE SYSTEM AND LET FREON ESCAPE INTO THE ATMOSPHERE IT IS ILLEGAL AND CAUSES DAMAGE TO THE OZONE LAYER. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST ANY QUESTIONS WRITE ME A MESSAGE.