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ac compressor

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38K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  andrewlobel  
#1 ·
hi everyone im new here and having problems with my 2003 hyundai tiburon gt v6 automatic. the ac compressor is out and was wondering if anyone here has replaced theirs before or have fixed it. It seems i have a leak somewhere on one of the o rings but now when i turn on the ac button i smell gas i have taken it to muliple shops and get the same answer ac compressor has a leak ac compressor is shot. Im thinking of buying a used one or maybe new and installing it myself im pretty handy just wondering if its something really complicated or has someone here done this before. Thanks for your time any help will be appreciated
 
#2 ·
The compressor is relatively straightforward to remove/replace. Check out HMAservice.com for more detailed diagrams. I don't know where you could buy the O-ring though...
 
#4 ·
It's extremely easy:

Remove the Serpentine belt from the A/C compressor using a 3/8" socket wrench on the idle tensioner.
Remove the pressure from the high pressure hose (right behind the coolant reservoir).
Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the lines to the A/C compressor
Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the A/C compressor to to block
Replace A/C compressor and reverse the removal process.

Fill the lines with Artic Freeze Freon in the low pressure side (Right behind and underneath the Upper Intake Manifold.


This is for the V6, btw.
 
#5 ·
one thing you should know tho, this is an extremely delicate system, containments can easily destroy the whole system so when you remove the lines makes sure you cap off everything and keep it as clean as possibly, only use the proper oil (pag) and seriously make sure that when you are all finished you take it to a shop and make sure the mechanic vacuums the system for at least 30min and does a vacuum test then make sure he fills it up to the manufacturers spec, i cant tell you how many mechanics ive seen just use the "standard" weight and oil it will cause damage. ive done my trial and error of repairing a/c units and they can be alot of fun or your worst nightmare. and this i cannot stress enough DO NOT try and refill your system with those walmart or Canadian tire re-fillers they don't work when your system is completely empty and they have proven to actually cause damage to a/c systems

hope everything works out good luck
 
#6 · (Edited)
^This. And also, make SURE you replace the dessicant bag in the receiver/dryer on the side of the condensor. I bought a used compressor with 20k miles on it from someone in Canada who obviously didn't need it, for about $120. I put everything on, got it recharged, and boom, a week later all the refrigerant leaked out. It was blowing ice cold. So, I replaced the low side hose about 3 months later and got it recharged. Afterwards, it was blowing cool, but not cold. Then my ac compressor started to cycle on and off fast, and the air would start getting warm after 10 minutes of running it. I assume the original dessicant bag was so old and used that it began to clog the ports that go to the high and low lines. I still do not have working A/C.

The biggest problem on my car to date has been everything A/C (even the fan switch melting and having to be glued--common problem, and the A/C button being finicky). The mechanical problems were mostly due to my own inexperience. Had I replaced the compressor, the low side line, the dessicant bag and all o-rings, I probably would have working A/C. Then again my car has nearly 140k miles on it so it may have needed an entire A/C overhaul involving the replacement of the high side line, expansion valve, and condensor as well. Hard to tell. I don't have $1000 to throw into A/C parts alone simply to take a shot in the dark. A/C mechanics and related diagnostics costs can be extremely expensive. One shop wanted $400 just to replace the low side line and recharge the system. So DO YOUR HOMEWORK on this.
 
#7 ·
Everyone thank you so much for the info i will do more research for a few months before i try this i am in no hurry and will also be going to college for this so hopefully by then i will be ready it might take me a while but i will update with pics and a how to so others can see how this can be done. Everyone here is alot nicer than other forums thats the reason i choose this one. Thanks again everyone for all ur input. I have some studying to do.
 
#8 ·
HI EVERYONE IM BACK I HAVE NOT FORGOT TO UPDATE YOU GUYS ON WHAT HAPPENED WITH MY AC SYSTEM. ANYWAYS ITS BEEN A YEAR SINCE LAST POST I HAVE NOT GONE TO COLLEGE YET FOR THIS BUT HAVE LEARNED ENOUGH TO TRY THE REPAIR. MY AC HAD FAILED NO COLD AIR AND I WAS TOLD BY DEALERS THERE WAS A LEAK IT WOULD NOT HOLD A CHARGE THEY WANTED
$1000 PLUS TO FIX AND THATS WITH USED COMPRESSOR PARTS AND LABOR. I HAD GONE ABOUT 3 YEARS WITH NO AC FINALLY THIS YEAR DECIDED IT WAS TIME. SINCE MY SYSTEM HAD A LEAK ALL THE FREON HAD LEAKED OUT IN THE THREE YEARS THAT IT WAS NOT IN USE. JUST TO MAKE SURE I TOOK IT TO A DEALER HAD THEM CHECK IT AND EVACUATE/VACUUM THE SYSTEM. I FIGURED START WITH THE LEAST EXPENSIVE PARTS FIRST SEE WHAT HAPPENS AND IF SO THEN FORK THE CASH AN BUY A NEW COMPRESSOR OR WHEREVER THE LEAK IS COMING FROM.

FIRST MY COMPRESSOR CLUTCH WAS NOT TURING WHEN THE AC BUTTON INSIDE THE CAR WAS ENGAGED THIS COULD MEAN ONE OF TWO THINGS WORST CASE COMPRESSOR IS SHOT/ CLUTCH IS LOCKED. OR THE REASON I THOUGHT WAS SINCE THERE WAS A LEAK AND NO FREON IN THE SYSTEM THE COMPRESSOR SHUTS ITS SELF OFF TO PREVENT FURTHER DAMAGE.

SECOND THE DEALERS COULD NOT FIND THE LEAK THEY SUSPECTED O-RINGS SO I WOULD DEF TRY THAT BECAUSE O-RINGS ARE CHEAP GOT THEM FOR $12.99 AT AUTOZONE THIS WAS FOR A WHOLE KIT DIFFERENT SIZES. PART NUMBER MT2683. I ALSO BOUGHT PAG OIL FOR R134 SYSTEM TO APPLY TO THE O-RINGS BEFORE BEING INSTALLED.

THIRD IVE BEEN TOLD AND HAVE READ THAT ANYTIME YOU OPEN THE SYSTEM TO PLUG THE OPENINGS ASAP BECAUSE DIRT AND MOISTURE CAN CONTAMINATE THE SYSTEM SO MAKE SURE TO DO THAT AND ANYTIME YOU OPEN MAJOR PARTS OF THE SYSTEM OR DO MAJOR AC REPAIR TO ALWAYS CHANGE THE DESICCANT BAG IN THE RECEIVER-DRIER ITS A LONG BAG TUBE LOOKING THING. THIS IS ATTACHED TO THE SIDE OF THE CONDENSER

http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183796

THE LINK ABOVE EXPLAINS HOW TO DO THIS.

ALSO ANOTHER CHEAP PART COST $8.99 AT AUTOZONE PART NUMBER RD10972BC

NOW TO THE INSTALL I CHANGED 7 O-RINGS IN TOTAL THERE WERE I THINK 3 THAT I DID NOT GET ONE REASON WHY THE PLACE WAS VERY HARD TO GET TO AND THE OTHER WAS I DIDN'T WANT TO OPEN UP THE INSIDES OF THE COMPRESSOR. THE O-RINGS THAT I DID NOT REPLACE WERE AT THE EXPANSION VALVE WHICH I THINK THERE ARE 2 THERE ONE FOR EACH TUBE HIGH SIDE LOW SIDE. AND THE OTHER WAS THE BIG DOUBLE SQUARED GASKET INSIDE THE TOP PLATE OF THE COMPRESSOR. THE O-RINGS I DID REPLACE WERE ONE RING AT THE SUCTION HOSE CONNECTION CLOSE TO THE LOW PRESSURE CAP BY THE FIRE WALL ITS A 10MM NUT. ONE ON THE COMPRESSOR SUCTION HOSE CONNECTION 12MM BOLT. ONE ON THE COMPRESSOR DISCHARGE HOSE CONNECTION 12MM BOLT. ONE AT THE CONDENSER DISCHARGE HOSE CONNECTION 10MM NUT. ONE AT THE CONDENSER SAME LOCATION AS THE DISCHARGE HOSE CONNECTION, I DONT KNOW WHAT THIS LINE IS CALLED BUT ITS THE ONE RIGHT NEXT TO IT ALSO 10MM NUT. THEN TWO O-RINGS BIG ONES AT THE RECEIVER-DRIER CAP THIS IS OPENED USING AN ALLEN WRENCH DONT REMEMBER THE SIZE BUT ITS THE BIGGEST ONE IN MY ALLEN WRENCH KIT. ADDED PAG OIL TO ALL RINGS TIGHTENED ALL NUTS/BOLT VERY TIGHT. THE OLD O-RINGS WERE VERY DRY AND DID LOOK COMPRESSED AND FLAT NOT BUMPY AND FAT LIKE THE NEW ONES. I DID REMOVE THE CONDENSER TO GET BETTER ACCESS TO THE DESICCANT BAG .THE RECEIVER-DRIER BAG THAT WAS IN PLACE WAS VERY BLACK AND WET IT HAD GROWN TO ALMOST DOUBLE ITS SIZE FELT SPONGY. I WILL UPLOAD PICS OF THAT BAG TOMORROW THE NEW ONE THAT WENT IN WAS WHITE AND VERY LIGHT, AS SOON AS I CUT THE PLASTIC BAG THAT IT CAME IN, I DROPPED IT RIGHT IN AND CLOSED IT WITH THE CAP TIGHTENED WITH THE HUGE ALLEN WRENCH AND FINISHED INSTALLING THE CONDENSER BACK IN ITS PLACE. YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE THE RADIATOR TO GET THE CONDENSER OUT YOU MIGHT HAVE TO JUST LOOSEN THE LEFT HEADLIGHT AND ALSO REMOVE A PLASTIC TRIM PANEL BY THE CONDENSER.

NOW THAT THIS REPAIR WAS DONE I HAD TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER CAUSE I DONT HAVE THAT $1000 MACHINE THAT VACUUMS THE SYSTEM/ CHARGES THEN FILLS IT UP WITH FREON. DEALER TOLD ME NO PROBLEMS, SO FAR THE SYSTEM DID HOLD A CHARGE THE FIRST TIME AND THEY FILLED IT WITH ABOUT 2 POUNDS OF FREON. AC IS BLOWING VERY COLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I HAD FORGOTTEN HOW THIS FELT CAUSE IT HAS BEEN SO LONG WITHOUT AC. ONCE I GOT HOME I PUT SOME BUBBLE LEAK LIQUID ON ALL THE CONNECTIONS AND CHECKED FOR LEAKS SAW NO BUBBLES COMING OUT ANYWHERE GOOD SIGN SO FAR. I WILL KEEP EVERYONE UPDATED TO LET YOU KNOW IF THIS WORKED BUT SO FAR SO GOOD. IM CONFIDENT MY AC IS NOW FIXED BECAUSE THE FIRST TIME I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO GET IT RECHARGED IT WOULD NOT HOLD A CHARGE AND HIS GAUGES DID INDICATE A LEAK. ANOTHER GOOD SIGN I STATED EARLIER ABOVE THAT THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH DID NOT ENGAGE, NOW WHEN THE AC BUTTON INSIDE THE CAR IS PRESSED AND THE AC SYSTEM IS TURNED ON THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH IS SPINNING/ENGAGING SO LOOKS LIKE NO NEED TO BUY A NEW COMPRESSOR SO FAR. WELL I WILL POST BACK IN A WEEK OR TWO TO LET EVERYONE KNOW.

HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE OUT WHO DOESN'T KNOW WHERE TO START TO REPAIR THIER AC SYSTEM. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY THIS IS JUST MY EXPLANATION OF WHAT I DID TO REPAIR MY SYSTEM. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BEFORE STARTING ANY WORK ON THE AC SYSTEM TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER AND HAVE THEM EVACUATE THE SYSTEM SO THAT THERE IS NO FREON INSIDE. DO NOT OPEN THE SYSTEM AND LET FREON ESCAPE INTO THE ATMOSPHERE IT IS ILLEGAL AND CAUSES DAMAGE TO THE OZONE LAYER. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST ANY QUESTIONS WRITE ME A MESSAGE.
 
#10 ·
well everyone its been a few days i check the system today and found the leak im pretty sure this is the only leak. I can see green freon coming out of it, the location of the leak is the suction hose fitting by the compressor i uploaded some pictures you can see the green liquid an bubbles coming out. question i had was ive been looking everywhere ofr this hose cant find it only ebay is selling it and their used ones has anyone bought this hose replaced this hose. is this the common hose that everyone on here has replace is this the one that everyone has had problems with leaking. One more thing the leak is very small one little bubble at a time is coming out you think i could just use some ac leak seal its like super glue but for ac systems? has anyone tried this before does it work.
 
#11 ·
well everyone its been a few days i check the system today and found the leak im pretty sure this is the only leak. I can see green freon coming out of it, the location of the leak is the suction hose fitting by the compressor i uploaded some pictures you can see the green liquid an bubbles coming out. question i had was ive been looking everywhere ofr this hose cant find it only ebay is selling it and their used ones has anyone bought this hose replaced this hose. is this the common hose that everyone on here has replace is this the one that everyone has had problems with leaking. One more thing the leak is very small one little bubble at a time is coming out you think i could just use some ac leak seal its like super glue but for ac systems? has anyone tried this before does it work.
 

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#12 ·
I'm going to add my own problem to this if no one minds. As is common, my 04 automatic Tibby began feeling warm on AC 2 summer ago so I had it refilled for $45, leak was found but it held - what did begin to happen though, is that my AC light on the AC control knob would suddenly go out, and so would the AC, so I'd turn the AC control knob and the light would come back and so would the AC. The AC started feeling warm last week so had it refilled for another $45, it's holding but leak is worse, and when at the dealer today for an oil change they reported it's leaking at the line AND at the compressor...

and to make my day even better, the trans coolant line is leaking too, but that's being fixed for free since I'd had the radiator replaced and the shop messed it up, trans fluid is full and no puddles yet...

add that it's time for coil overs and tires and the rear rotors are pitted plus the damn seatbelt light has been on for a year and I've got the 94,000 mile blues -

if the car wasn't looking so mint, hmmm I dunno if I'd be contemplating all the work I have to do
 
#14 ·
same thing on my gf's 03 Tiburon GT V6. Small leak, but a high pressure hose. Going to try getting a used one, but very skeptical. Still have to see what this hose will cost at the dealer. My gf's car is an 03 with 65k miles... A/C was barely used. Of course past 5yr warranty of course. This car is a lemon... trans, control arms, rear brake tube?, AC, leaky rear hatch, etc.
 
#19 ·
Btw, this thread is the first one that comes in Google when searching about replacing Tiburon's AC so even if it is old I think it is relevant :p

In case some ppl are looking for the part and thinking refurb -as I did- just wanted to let you know that the part is available new from Delphi. Got mine for $230 + tax from Amazon so it is quite a deal, particularly being new.

Part # is CS20135. Now, if anyone has had a bad experience with this part please post it - particularly before I have mine installed :p

Hope this helps.
 
#21 ·
When you have any sort of air conditioning problems, like if your air conditioner suddenly stops cooling the air, there is no doubt that your AC unit needs repair/service. You should have your AC unit checked if you notice decreased air flow from the registers. Always call in an Emergency AC Repair Specialist for repair or service of your ac.
 
#23 ·
I ordered a new AC Compressor and drier reciever for my car last week . Was not real hard to replace the compressor. The drier was a little hard to remove. I got a kit that had the orings included. The compressor had the clutch installed . I had the parts the next day after ordering . works good now...:laugh::laugh: