Do you have the tools to do a leakdown test? You might just have to replace the headgasket.

Need a pic of the wire you are reffering to. Comment on a few posts.

 

That is ground 24, it's part of the radio frequency interference shielding around the ignition coil wires.

I'm willing to bet that you have a weak engine ground and it's finding ways to get to ground. Check the strap that goes from the firewall to the upper intake manifold, it sounds like it might be corroded.

 

I haven't peeled the covering off the plug and back up the wire yet but I'd bet money it has burned through the injector wiring here and there. I did have a couple of off/on electrical issues and I did rework the very connection you speak of. Problem is I think the ground strap itself is trash. I was thinking of making a new ground (copper battery ground wire) from somewhere on the block to the front clip (frame)

 

Wouldn't hurt to install a complete ground kit.

 

Ok I know of the firewall strap and the battery ground. Where are the others?

 

You can see the burnt covering.

 

The picture is too small, even zoomed in. I can't read the red lettering.

 

Better?

 

i found the same wire burnt on mine when i bought my tib. i just traced it and replaced it and also added a grounding kit with a ground going to the coil bracket. It deff made my car run smoother , it had a small miss every once in a while it this cleared it all up

 

Ah, now I see it! Well.....first thing I would do is check my fuses. To me, a burned up wire means somebody popped a fuse and replaced it with a higher amp fuse.

 

Well my correct motor finally showed. Well sort of. I needed a 01-03 and they sent me an 06. So I'm sure the fun has just begun.

 

It's the same motor.

 

Same motor only it does not share the same fuel system with my 03. 06 no return fuel line like the 03. I haven't gotten all the info on the differences but how ever small they are they still have to be addressed or the car will not run correctly. Any help with what those things might be would be greatly appreciated.

 

Just swap over the fuel rails, that's all you need to do.

 

Simple enough.

 

Yes, please let us know what doesn't work between the two. That is great info.

 

I have the same problem with the coil pack ground wire. How difficult to replace?

 

Haven't gotten to the wire yet, HOWEVER I have determined I have a "H" eighth digit vin motor. Sonata engine? Some***** I have been through crap with these people. After they initially set me a 2L 4banger I called them back and told them I would be willing to wait till they could find me a "F" eighth digit motor...................... they send me this. :diaf:

I am not sure about the year though everything I have looked over looks about the same. I will have the other motor out of the car tonight, guess I will see then.

 

I am going open another thrd about the swap. I do not have the motor out yet. I got to the torque converter bolts this evening and had to call it quits. I have the other motor prepped though with fresh timing belt kit, water pump, plugs and a few other small things. I have not determined the year model yet. I will get to the bottom of the burnt wire after the motor is out.

 

Engine out. I still haven't found out what year model my replacement motor is. It is a sonata motor, year unknown though. It does have a return line fuel rail, so no issue there.. I had to swap the coil packs, different connector. So far thats all I have found. I'll get elbow deep in there this weekend when i go back in with the other engine. I do know I took way to much stuff off the engine to remove it. When it goes back in the only real "part" that will be reattached is the ac compressor. Now I can get in there and get a good look at my wiring. My starter hot wire looks like it possibly has been rubbing hard against the transmission and may have been grounding off and on, not to mention not really tight on the starter.

 

I am doing the exact same swap and my troubles are in the coil pack. ever since ive dropped the 04 sonata engine in my 03 tiburon, v6, i havent gotten any spark to the spark plugs. at first, i thought id gave to swapp the coil packs too because the connection is different to the main harness but then i figured and have been told that i could just use the tiburon coils. so I bought a new coil pack because that would tell me if the coils ive been using before are bad, but that isnt the problem. did you just drop the motor in without changing an ecu? did you change the crank or cam sensors?

 

Burnt wire found!

I got in there and started cutting off tape and peeling stuff back and here is what I found:

It ended up at this plug. This is the connector for the coil pack. It has a several larger wires made up in a cable similar to a coaxial cable. The grounding shield is what this small black ground wire attaches to.

This is the termination to the shield

I don't what or why it happened, I guess maybe the engine ground became bad? who knows. I think the real issue was this darn wire had burned through multiple wires on it way to its exit of the harness. Burned clean through several wires taking them to ground. I am attaching two separate wires at this location and exiting the harness on the spot. One ground to engine, one to the front clip. Gotta get this mess taped back up so I can get on with it. I am also going to have a good look at the relay box and see how that hot mess is grounded. I know this power comes from that location.

 

Out with the old in with the new er.

 

Car ran awesome but I have some weirdness going on with when I run the headlight or AC the temp gauge buries on H. WTF?

 

Solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Burnt wire solved. I have 12 volts from block to battery ground. I got a hot wire touching the frame or engine somewhere. It melted the same wire again 20 minutes into the shake down drive this evening. Suddenly the car got hot. I got off to the side and found the headlights being turned off would put the temp gauge back to normal range. Headlights on, temp gauge buries
Got her home and found the car was NOT hot with OBD. :facepalm: Well I got all day tomorrow to find it. Real bummer, car runs like a champ. Matter of fact it has never ran this good. I get this sorted and the worlds gonna turn..

 

Took the battery ground to the block and that was that. I kept the battery to frame ground as well. Everything functions properly. I replaced the crappy grounding strap to the firewall and replaced it with a battery ground cable as well. I searched for 4 hrs and found no "hot" wire to the chassis. I really cannot figure out where the voltage was coming from. I do know it was trying to go to ground through the coil pack ground wire. I followed my daughter to work (23 miles) I told her to turn on everything in the car on the way there. When we got there I checked the small ground wire as well as the battery cables to see if anything had gotten hot but nothing had. She said the temp ran perfect straight up to less than half all the way. Victory.

 

You are Positive you are not getting spark. Pull a plug boot stick a plug in and lay it down on the motor and turn the engine over, it should be obvious. I would do this to make sure you do/do not have fire. There are several other things that could be causing it so don't be too sure that's the coils that are the issue. I am not positive but I would think you should have 12 volts coming to the coils with key in the run position at the coil pack connector.

I used my intake, throttle body,fuel rail, fuel regulator, injectors, coils, crank sensor, starter and purge valve. That's it. Car started and ran flawlessly. Make double sure ALL connectors are plugged in and that your engine grounds are solid. I added a battery negative post to block ground wire. Battery post to frame, check it, mine was rotten. Engine to fire wall, check it. Grounding kit is inexpensive or just use copper battery grounds like I did.

Did you research your vin to be positive what it came out of?