[Lessaj]

Your running lean. Your long term fuel trims LTFT should be below %10. also your mass air flow rate is waaaay to high for 1500 rpm. I would get a multi meter and start testing the mass air flow sensor. Its probably sending faulty info and thus making your car run like crap

No I think 12 g/s is normal for cold start. Don't really have a running car to check this on though.

 

[caconman424]

No I think 12 g/s is normal for cold start. Don't really have a running car to check this on though.

Ya I didnt catch that it was in open loop until I double checked that info. I would like to see how it looks wamred up

 

[Metalblue]

Tune up: last month including pulgs, wires, oil, k&n oil filter, both fuel filters replaced, new TB gasket and cleaning, new upper manifold gasket and cleaning, brand new MAF installed.

Haven't checked the timing yet as I'm waiting on the new belt kit to get here.

Here are some charts I pulled using live data at idle. You can see the rough idle.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151341062437536.1073741825.668332535&type=1&l=ef96e96e2f

 

[caconman424]

Its a little hard to follow on the charts, especially for the fuel trims, because I cant really tell what the Y-axis represents. Im assuming in some, the increments are 5/10ths of a volt, but on the others, I have absolutely no idea

 

[Metalblue]

Its a little hard to follow on the charts, especially for the fuel trims, because I cant really tell what the Y-axis represents. Im assuming in some, the increments are 5/10ths of a volt, but on the others, I have absolutely no idea

oh the Y axis is just time in seconds. thats all it will let me do for that axis in the line graph options. I could do a different option for Y axis using the scatter graph but I cant even begin to comprehend reading those.

Every time you see a spike in the graph the engine is rumbling, like a misfire but I'm not pulling ANY misfire data. I even setup a knock/detonation test and had my girl hold the tablet while we were going down the road and it didn't read anything abnormal. I'm kinda lost as to why it's acting the way it is. I went from 27mpg average to 21mpg average. My throttle response is slooooow and i can hear what sounds like a misfire when standing behind the car but I think I have an exhaust leak in one of the flex pipes causing that. I'll post another freeze frame of it warmed up for those that requested it.

 

[reko]

Tune up: last month including pulgs, wires, oil, k&n oil filter, both fuel filters replaced, new TB gasket and cleaning, new upper manifold gasket and cleaning, brand new MAF installed.

Haven't checked the timing yet as I'm waiting on the new belt kit to get here.

Here are some charts I pulled using live data at idle. You can see the rough idle.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151341062437536.1073741825.668332535&type=1&l=ef96e96e2f

So all the work done was in response to poor idle? Or the poor idle quality started after the work was done?

In the second freeze frame data post, did you have your foot on the throttle pedal? It shows 5.xxx%.

Seems that sometimes when taking all that stuff off people have misplaced the cable bracket on the throttle body and either pull the throttle cable too tight or put it inbetween and create a vacuum leak. This isn't your case, is it?

 

[Lessaj]

So all the work done was in response to poor idle? Or the poor idle quality started after the work was done?

In the second freeze frame data post, did you have your foot on the throttle pedal? It shows 5.xxx%.

Seems that sometimes when taking all that stuff off people have misplaced the cable bracket on the throttle body and either pull the throttle cable too tight or put it inbetween and create a vacuum leak. This isn't your case, is it?

5% at idle is a fairly normal reading. I think mine goes from like 8%-96%.

 

[reko]

5% at idle is a fairly normal reading. I think mine goes from like 8%-96%.

Interesting. I do have to say that I don't look at too many Hyundai data streams, but most of the ones I see are 0-2ish. I've never actually looked at mine, never needed or had a reason too. I also have the i4 so not sure how much difference that would make with Hyundai.

 

[funkeywoookey]

I don't really have much more to offer, but I will say that Torque has more potential.

You can have it setup to log data and save it to your SD card, as well as automatically upload to Ian's webserver for viewing. You can then look at all graphs at once. I think it's pretty cool that it logs GPS data as well, which lets you see all the data that happened at a particular time and a particular place. This is also helpful if you get a CEL..you can go back and see what events happened prior to setting the code.

Strangely enough, I've had pending codes set one 4 different occasions while driving by a little airport I drive by every now and then. Might be coincidence, I don't know. But I would have never come to that conclusion without the logs.

 

[reko]

Are the parameters in the report you posted the only ones you can get data for?

The graphs by themselves don't really say much, but putting them together on one display and having them synced would be a lot more helpful. Even better would to be able to graph upstream o2 data, maf data, and some of the data you already have. Then we could probably at least see which bank the misfire is on. And like funkywoookey says we may be able to pick up some other correlations in the data.

Also, a bit more info on the vehicle and work done would be helpful so it not such a guessing game.

year, miles, trans type, who did the work? is the maf oem or aftermarket? a video of the problem would also be helpful.

 

[Metalblue]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151287096247536&l=3733544913797419914

ask and ye shall recieve. VIDEO

 

[reko]

So let me make sure I have this straight from what you said in the video...

This started after the plug wires where changed. It is burning some oil also? Did you change the oil the same time you changed the plugs and wires?

You said you double checked the plug wires, but did you double check the plugs and make sure they are tight?

The noise sounds mechanical in nature and increases with engine speed. My tiny laptop speakers aren't the best. It kinda sounds like it is related to valve train as in the hla's. You say the noise will go away after a certain speed, does it also go away once warmed up?

I would put on an oem oil filter, as non-oem ones have caused many noisy engines before. As for the oil burning, you want to check/replace the pcv valve. Did you keep your old plugs or notice if any were very black? As for the mileage, getting the engine running right should certainly help but don't forget to check for things like dragging brakes or low tire pressures.

 

[Metalblue]

I'm not sure that I said it was burning oil? If I did I was wrong. The oil is fresh and I'm using a k&n oil filter because yes I was getting the infamous tick from crappy oil filter and that took care of it completely. The ticking your hearing in the video is deeper than the springs. I've often thought the valve train myself. Its def isolated to the front bank. How can you test hla to see if its bad is there a visual inspection? As far AZ the plugs I've had them out twice now since replacing them. That was the first place I looked for faults then the wires then the coils all is well in that dept. I'm kinda at a loss. I'm also getting a shake in the engine around 90. No its not tire balanced trust me I've been through that already. Do you think maybe I've got a bent valve or its sticking?

 

[Metalblue]

At idle I'm watching my timing advance jump between 9.5 and 15 is that normal? Also my long term fuel trims are at 20.6 and 20.1 that's pretty high isn't? What would came se these conditions? I took my SRI off and reset the ecu today I'm hoping that brings my trims back down

 

[Metalblue]

At idle I'm watching my timing advance jump between 9.5 and 15 is that normal? Also my long term fuel trims are at 20.6 and 20.1 that's pretty high isn't? What would came se these conditions? I took my SRI off and reset the ecu today I'm hoping that brings my trims back down

Just an update. I have 2 MAF's one I bought a few weeks ago and one that came on the car. This whole time I was thinking the one that came on the car was the OEM one, WRONG! I pulled it out today and was looking it over and on a little tiny sticker inside the housing there is a bar code and under it stamped as small as possible it read "REMFG" well FML we all know what that abbreviation stands for. So just out of curiousity I put the one back on that came with the car and my timing advance went from a steady 9.5-12.0 to 13 to 15.5 to 8.0 and back and forth. my throttle gauge jumped from 5.2 to 6.7 and the MAF reading itself went from 3.2g/s to 5.5g/s. So that was part of the issue, and that MAF was on the car in video.

Now instead of using my crappy droid as an OBD2 tester I took the next step and got a bluetooth antenna for my laptop for a whopping 1.23 off eBay and downloaded ScanXL. I'm about to set it up and pull data on my lunch break. I'll post some new info on my finds!

 

[funkeywoookey]

Just an update. I have 2 MAF's one I bought a few weeks ago and one that came on the car. This whole time I was thinking the one that came on the car was the OEM one, WRONG! I pulled it out today and was looking it over and on a little tiny sticker inside the housing there is a bar code and under it stamped as small as possible it read "REMFG" well FML we all know what that abbreviation stands for. So just out of curiousity I put the one back on that came with the car and my timing advance went from a steady 9.5-12.0 to 13 to 15.5 to 8.0 and back and forth. my throttle gauge jumped from 5.2 to 6.7 and the MAF reading itself went from 3.2g/s to 5.5g/s. So that was part of the issue, and that MAF was on the car in video.

Now instead of using my crappy droid as an OBD2 tester I took the next step and got a bluetooth antenna for my laptop for a whopping 1.23 off eBay and downloaded ScanXL. I'm about to set it up and pull data on my lunch break. I'll post some new info on my finds!

Just bought a bluetooth usb adapter myself. I didn't realize they were that cheap until you said so.

 

[reko]

Does the engine run any better with the maf's switched out? What are ltft's now?

 

[Metalblue]

Hey guys just wanted to throw up an update on the situation. I found a thread on here where a user with lean conditions being caused by his SRI moved his IAT (intake air temp) sensor from the intake to the actual tubing of the SRI. This got me wondering what the condition of my IAT was. So when I looked it, it had what seemed to be this gray rubber stuff built up all around it, which confused the hell out of me because I've worked on a lot of GT's with my army buddies when I was stationed in Texas and had never seen an IAT look this way. So I pulled my upper intake off to get a better look and what I saw appalled me! Either the used dealer I bought the car from or the previous owner had removed the sensor and while trying to reinstall it over tightened it (its only plastic) and they broke the threads off inside the intake and instead of springing for a new one which only runs around $30-$40 they used this devishly hard epoxy and attempted to glue the rest back to the intake! What's worse they didn't even make sure it was sealed completely so I've had a nice leak out the back of my manifold this entire time!! IDIOTS!!

So because I can't get a new sensor till I get paid Friday. I used a grommet from the aerospace company where I work and epoxied that into the manifold and then screwed what's left of the sensor back in. Leak gone. BUT sensor doesn't function properly, so while plugged in, it is causing my lean condition and throwing my fuel trims up to 20.% and 20.5% so I just unplugged it for now and my trims dropped back to 11.7% and 11.7% which I'm good with.