Beat the ever loving piss out of them with a rubber mallet, start on one side, then hit the opposite side. Do this long enough, and they will budge eventually.

 

That and WD-40. Thats what I did to mine when i was doing the DIY.

 

When i had mine done..... the dude had to use some thing to make them come off..... it was like in the middle of the rotors and he used a impact gun to turn them or some crap. Then used a mallet.

 

if you are putting on new rotors, then who cares about them- pound on them with a hammer and rotate, pound and rotate, pound and rotate- get the idea? the will fall off themselves...

 

Continuous pounding with a rubber mallet did nothing for me, so I ended up using a gear puller. When it finally came lose, half of the rear hub stayed put. It ended up costing me about $100 to replace.

Good luck!

 

rubber mallet wont do anything- use a metal hammer...- it jolts it and breaks it free from the rust...

 

And remember the calipers on the rear's are a PITA! You need to twist them in clockwise (I think, its been a while) in order to compress them back to the open position.

 

that's what i was thinking off.... nevermind.

yea...... bang the crap out of them. hehe.

 

at my hobby shop there is a torque screw driver. you hit it with a hammer and it breaks them free... pain in the A$$ with out the tool...

 

I tried to knock them lose with a hammer i had that didn't do **** so i figured i would try a rubber one about 2 min later i had them off of both sides. My guess is because the rubber mallet had a larger surface area it was more effective. Anyway the point is if anyone is having this problem buy a $1.50 rubber mallet and beat the hell out of them lol

 

As said above...... just beat the crap out of it until it breaks free. I must have hit the rear rotor from the inside hitting outwards (which is a pain in and of itself) for 20 minutes each rotor before they broke free.

 

OMFG.

After two hours with (in order of appearance) a rubber mallet, a prybar, a 16-oz hammer, a pneumatic impact wrench, and a sledgehammer my passenger rear OEM rotor finally came off.

Tip: If you're going to whack on your rotors with metal objects, use ear protection. I put the earplugs in after three or four whacks, and I'm still hearing this an hour after finishing up:

eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

 

lol there you go. I just finished spitzers BBK install. Took about an hr for the fronts including SS lines and then 30 mins for one rear and 90 minutes for the other rear. Use heat ( torch ) and pb blaster. Then mallot the **** out of them. Of course with a large hammer.

However do not smack it from the front as it is possible to snap the rotor in 2. Yes thats correct i snapped a rotor in 2

 

These are the first cars I've ever seen with a non vented rotor on the rears. I'm really glad they are read disc, but vented would have been nice. Another thing, does the E-brake actuate on the front for these cars, or the rear? And it is a drum style or does it use the cliper?

 

No drums - just the disc. There's a cable for mechanical actuation as well as the hydraulic lines going to the rear calipers.

 

After soaking the rotor and hub with WD40, go to Harbor Freight and buy an 8" gear puller. It will pull the rotors right off no problem.

 

holy old thread batman...


please if the thread is a year old start a new one...\

In Before the :lock:

 

Locked...........yeah, see above.