[idrivetuscani]

I'm using a breaker bar and the long handle of my floor jack as an extension and the axle nut wouldnt even budge....i sprayed a good amount of PB blaster on it too.....is there anything that locks the axle nut in besides the little pin on the top which I already pulled out?

I'm gonna pick up an electric (corded) impact wrench which is rated up to 230 lb-ft of torque tonight and give it a shot...it probably won't do it since the torque spec on the axle nut is up to 207 lb-ft...but it's on sales anyway so I'll give it a try.

thanks

 

[maze1291]

There's only the cotter pin that holds it in. Sounds like you already have it removed though.
The impact should get it off no problem. You can put a lot of torque on a breaker bar but sometimes you just need that pulsing impact to get it off. Just don't use the impact to re-tighten it. (It's fine to run the nut in snug with it if you're careful). Use a trusting torque wrench and replace the cotter pin with a new one if you can.

 

[schroder]

Harbor Freight electric impact worked wonders on mine. Just set it on and pull the trigger. It may take a second, but the electrics are wonderful

 

[wstuscani]

This is going to sound crazy but my dad taught me this...tighten the bolt a little and then try to loosen it this usually works to break the bolt free. or try steping on the breaker that should break it free..you might be there a while with a impact.

 

[Koreandude]

An electric impact wrench is the way I take mine off.

But as mentioned before, be sure you to use the appropriate torque wrench to re-tighten. Do not use the impact gun to tighten to spec.

 

[GK27V6]

I had this problem once. Since my car was ten years old, I simply cut the axle nut off and bought a new axle and nut lmao. $100 shipped and done.

 

[03_tibby_CT]

i use an impact wrench.

u can try everything u suggested. shops will often heat the nut with an ox-acetlyne torch to get it hot (which expands the metal and loosens it and then hit it with an impact gun again.

hey, you're in hamden!

 

[breeechan]

My semen blaster product has so many applications... I really need to get to developing it

 

[wstuscani]

My semen blaster product has so many applications... I really need to get to developing it

Is that like scrubbing bubbles they swim the rust away...:bouncebounce:

 

[idrivetuscani]

I got a impact wrench from Harbor Freight and the axle nut came right off. But now I am having so much trouble removing the tip of the axle from the hub. I unbolted the knuckle (hub) from the strut assembly and I have not getting enough room to push the axle out of the hub. I've read that people removed the brake caliper (trying to do that, the nuts won't budge and my impact gun won't fit behind the caliper), but even with the caliper removed and the rotor off, I dont see how that would clear more room to push the axle out. Any tips guys?

 

[maze1291]

Here's the hub-end driveshaft removal from the service manual. If you follow the instructions all should go well.

Best of luck!

 

[stage2tibby]

i live in hamden too! lol i just did this about a week ago. the caliper has to come off. then just take a hammer and bang the axle back through the hub

 

[idrivetuscani]

thanks for the instructions...i removed the ball joint nut and the tie rod nut but couldn't get them free but they do not need to be disconnect...i pulled the hub as far down and to the left (passenger side axle) as possible and I was able to squeeze my impact wrench in there to remove the caliper bolts....I removed the caliper and the rotor and that set a bit more space free and I was able to push the axle out....

I'm done for tonight, but I'll try to pry the axle out tomorrow....I looked up some pics of our axle and i took a look under the car trying to figure out where to pry....do I pry the gap that's kinda lined up with the engine oil pan drain bolt?

and stage2tibby...what is the color of your tib? i wonder if I've seen you driving around....I live near the intersection of whitney and dixwell...my tib is black, but it hasnt been on the road for more than 6 months now...

 

[Koreandude]

I've never had to remove my caliper to get the axle out, for either the driver side or passenger side.

The driver's side has one less step as one doesn't have to unbolt the half shaft from the rear of the block.

Anyhow, unbolting the knuckle from the strut and removing the ABS and brake line from the strut is about all one needs to do.

The knuckle will then rotate and tilt out and back toward the rear of the car. This gives the splined part of the shaft, room to sneak out of the bearing. The spline will be at an angle compared to the rest of the CV joint but thats because the tie-rod is still connected to the knuckle which causes the knuckle to swivel toward the rear, rather than just tilting away and out of the fender area.

Caliper removal is not necessary.

The only bad thing about CV joint replacement is not bolting your knuckle back to the strut exactly how it was before removal. This will effect your camber and toe.

If you have pillow ball mounts, there is a little trick:

Bolt your knuckle on the strut so that the knuckle is pushed all the way against the back of the strut. It won't matter because the camber can be adjusted via the pillow ball mounts.

Get an alignment.

Now if you ever have to unbolt the strut from the knuckle, finding it's last position is easy as you just slide the bolts through, shove the knuckle all the way back, and tighten, preserving your alignment.