could well be a vacuum issue this-check all hoses on for a start

 

I checked the hoses that all hook up to the tb and everything in that area and they are all on.

I took off the intake from the tb and when i pulled the throttle cable i heard kind of a hissing/sucking noise that seemed to slowly faid away as the valve was completely closed and the rpms slowly dropped. so i looked around and found the hose directly behind the valve on the tb had a really small crack on the top of it, so i replaced that today but that didnt help in the end any way.

I dont know if that hissing/ sucking noise is supposed to be there, obviously without the intake hooked up there is going to be noise, but ill re check the hoses again

 

could a crack in my manifold cause my rpm's to stick? because i definitly just discovered that i have a small crack in mine. or is that a totally different problem?

 

hey bud i have the same problem and still have not figured out what it is. let me know if your find your problem.

 

have you checked for exhaust leaks?
i just found a crack in my header and don't know if that is causing it, but its probly going to go in the shop soon because i'm out of ideas.
have you done anything to pinpoint the issue on yours?

 

check your throttle cables for slack. and the crack in the manifold could be causing a vacuum leak

 

the cables all seem to be moving freely with no slack, and i think i'm going to try to get my manifold wedled if i can, see if that helps.

Your release bearing could be going to hell ... when's the last time you replaced the clutch/bearing/flywheel?

Nevermind, just saw that it does it on startup out of gear.

what would be the symptomes of my release bearing going out?
i just bought my car about a month ago and the person i bought it from said that they "recently" had the clutch replaced, but i dont have any paper work on it.

Ive been noticeing that the rpms don't stay up so high when its running cold, like when i start it up and go to school in the morning. today, it was 8 degrees out and i let it warm up for a little bit, but i was late so i took off and it shifted fine, rpms dropped right when i pushed the clutch in, but once it started to warm up, i'd push the clutch in and the rpms would stay were they were at.

 

Your release bearing could be going to hell ... when's the last time you replaced the clutch/bearing/flywheel?

Nevermind, just saw that it does it on startup out of gear.

 

i check my lines and everything. im still in the hunt for what it could be.

 

ok, so i took my car to the dealer today and they said that the crack in the manifold is causing a bad o2 sensor reading and "most likely" causing the rpm problem. however my local mechanic in town said that the cracked manifold wouldnt cause this issue. so im getting mixed feedback here.
and then on top of that, my BCM is not functioning properly.
wooooooooooooooooooooooo
new header, here i come!!!
any suggestions on a header brand?

 

ok so i am totaly set against the crack in the manifold causing my rpms to rev. does any one else have any ideas about this? ive checked everything and can't pinpoint the problem.

 

spray wd 40 on the back spring on the TB.

the sticky rpm is from the weather, it has happened to alot of poeple this winter with the harsh tempurature changes.

simply get a friend/ partner.

have he/she push the gas pedal(with car off) and just to the floor and off and to the floor and up slowly as you spray wd 40 all over. now have them bounce it up and down to the floor and just keep spraying then have then stop. now spray some more and jthen get it and floor it quick for like 5-10 times. then just start up and test it.


but the wd 40 is a solvent so it will eat remaining grease off the spring. so just be aware you will need to respray maybe once every 2-4 months

 

Spray some lithium spray on there....that white crap. That will keep it properly lubed up.

 

thanks, i'll give that a try tomorow
i've messed with that spring before but havent lubed it,

i have noticed that when the car is cold and just started up and i start driving, the rpms do not rev up, its only when the car temp. is hot that the rpms stick. i don't know if this is relivant or not, im just throwing things out there that i notice

 

well i put wd 40 on that spring and pumped the gas pedal while i did that with my dad today and nothing changed. i should be getting that crack in my manifold welded soon or replaced, so i guess we'll see if that fixes my problem because im out of ideas.

 

will be replacing the throttle body assembly within the next week
just a quick update,
definitly still open for ideas

 

throttle body replacement did not solve this problem.
will be diving off a clif within this next week
baaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

I have had this problem a few months ago, it was my TPS ( Throttle Positioning Sensor) this sensor tells the cars computer if the throttle opened or closed and fixed my issue as soon as I changed it out. Was only 50 bucks at Advanced Auto Parts. I just started having problems again but I also know I have one bad o2 sensor so I assume my new is still is good condition.

 

I have this problem too, been ignoring it. I'm glad you started this thread and have been giving it your all to find a solution.

 

haha im just hoping that someone will have an idea that i will try and solve my problem. if you by any chance fix yours, make sure you let me know. I am totally stumped.

 

mine sticks at about 1500... sometimes it does it and other times it dont.

BUT the other day when it was sticking i was playing around under the hood with the car running and I unplugged the IAC and it stopped doing it. So I dont know if it is just a bad IAC or what. But who knows. I hope to figure it out soon its getting old.

The other day I went all day without it sticking... but then at night it started sticking..

 

I had the same problem when we put new headers on a v6 the 02 sensor sounds like a good possibility. we thought about the tps but since that only stopped it for a short amount of time i would look into the 02 sensor.

 

well i replaced my cracked manifold with one without any cracks yesterday and unfortionitly, the sticking continues. So at this point i have replaced:

TPS
IAC
Throttle Body
Exhaust Manifold (cracked old one)

messed with:
all of the cables, checked for slack, lubed up the spring and cleaned out my throttle body/ intake manifold.

i might take my car to the worlds worst hyundai dealer soon, still debating, last time the guys there were total bromo sexuals.

so I'm still taking any ideas that anyone has, even they are a little out there, at this point, ill try it to try and save my tib.

thanks to everyone so far!

 

edit to the previous, I also repalced the O2 sensor.

 

My rpm only sticks shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. Everytime I press the clutch from 1st gear the rpm would stay for a while and then slowly drop. But from 2nd gear and the rest of the gear the rpm drops pretty quickly. I also noticed that during cold start rpm drops quickly but once the car is warm up the rpm sticks from 1st to 2nd gear. I'm also been looking for solution it's really annoying.

 

what year is your tib?

 

I have an 07 Tiburon I4.

 

I've notice that if I turn on the AC the rpm really drops quickly but there is a slight power loss with AC on. Try turning your AC on and see if it drops rapidly.

 

sounds like we are having the same exact issue. I recently noticed that too now that its warmer.

Last week I took my car to the dealer and had my ECU reprogramed because i found out about a TSB simmilar to the rpm issue. That helped a little so my rpms drop a few seconds faster than before, but not as good as when the AC is on. wich is totally wierd.

I have no idea what could link the AC and the RPMs together. I know that the AC drains power but it doesn't make sence to me.