Not much difference, one is going to have a little give when engaging that's about it. OEM is unsprung with dual mass flywheel.

 

Are you looking to replace your flywheel as well? It's highly recommended, however pretty much every aftermarket flywheel is a solid flywheel, so you'll need a sprung clutch. Solid clutches will basically destroy themselves against a solid flywheel.

 

Not true, you don't need a sprung clutch with solid flywheel.

 

having a sprung clutch or sprung flywheel will allow some "give or play" in the engagement. having solid clutches mated with solid flywheels eliminates that "play" and sends the shock to the transmission internals and they absorb it. for a daily driver that is not heavily modded get a stage 2 full face sprung hub clutch. it will treat you and your transmission nicely.

edit: fyi our transmissions are not designed to take that kind of shock wave but it can be done. a big part is driving style

 

Yea, it can be done, but it's really not a good idea and you're just asking for premature failure if you're not careful. Or you'll have your TOB separate before the clutch wears down.

 

gabes tob separated for a few reasons. one is the tob was after market and they tend to be less reliable, i inspected it and didn't find any valeo markings. another is that the way our system is designed (pull style) means the TOB is constantly under pressure weather the clutch is engaged or not. so having a bearing like that constantly spinning will cause it to stretch and eventually fail. its like a timed failure in my mind, even if you are able to make a clutch last over 200k the tob would most certainly fail before the clutch does.. my tob was on the verge of failure when i replaced my clutch. the fact that he had a super light weight flywheel mated with a solid disc clutch most likely had nothing to do with the failure of his TOB, i believe it contributed to the failure of his blocker rings but i would have no way of being completely sure without getting a good look at the actual blocker rings and because the trans is going back as a core that will not happen

loosing the play that a sprung clutch would have provided accelerated the damage of his blocker rings decreasing the efficiency of the syncros

 

If it puts you at ease I have been using an unsprung clutch the entire life of my transmission with a s/c for the last 40,000miles

 

to add more information. yes im replacing my clutch and flywheel. im looking to go with a clutchmasters, they have two stage 2 listed on their site one with a rigged and one with a sprung disc. im looking to pair this with a fidanza flywheel. it seems like a popular choice.

 

I also run an unsprung disc, daily driver, S/C for over 30k, it's fine, NO problems with the tranny, the talk of it destroying your tranny is BS. I'm running a South Bend OFE,

 

I suppose that depends on the clutch. It was my car stated above by Lukeman and Lessaj that fell apart. The previous owner put a Fidanza flywheel in it, mated to the stock clutch, with 220000KM on it. I did not know this. In fact the previous owner told me he put in an aftermarket clutch.. ah well.

 

Yea i just changed my clutch last month. I bought an ARK flywheel and and OEM valeo disk that is meant for a solid flywheel. Its from one of those solid flywheel conversion kits. But it did work and it was much better than stock and no where near harsh when engaging. I got both for about 400 which was a real good deal IMO