To adjust your throttle there is 2 11 or 12 mm nuts up by your throttle body you should adjust it until your rpms are around 700 or 800 and also inspect your throttle cable and check for abnormal wear and check for breaks.
Follow the cable from the gas peddle to the throttle body maybe even try lubricating the cable behind the peddle.

 

try the toyota forums.

 

I had to lull on that one.

On the serious side check the cable and throttle body like mentioned above.

 

I have been having very similar results as well. I have played with my TB while doing a tune-up with no change. If you come to a conclusion, could you let me know what you did? Thanks.

Oh, cables are fine and at the proper tensions...Idle is correct.

 

Make sure throttle cable has some slack there should be no tension. If that does'nt fix it check the IAC (the black thing on the throttle body).

 

Sounds like an IAC problem. I just had a similar situation myself. I would push the clutch in and the throttle would sky rocket. Shut the car off and turn it back on and it would reset to normal. 3 days later it would happen all over again.
I replaced the IAC and the car runs better than it did before there was a problem. Also there is much better throttle response. It will probably cost you about $40 from your local auto parts store, IF they stock it (I had some trouble there. Autozone or Advance can order it if they do not have it in stock).

 

Mine did this about a month ago. My throttle cable was adjusted properly. If you have cruise, make sure there is slack in that cable also. There is a proper voltage reading that the TPS returns to the ECM @ idle, you do NOT set it based on RPM.

My problem was my TPS. I would be cruising down the free way, catch up to traffic, put the car in "N" and it would stay @ 3-4K rpm. Replaced the TPS and problem solved.

While your doing this, clean your TB also.

 

toyotas issue has been said to be loose floor boards catching and holding the pedal. If the TB and cables are working fine, check the area surrounding the pedal for anything that may impede its ability to return to its normal position.

 

Yeah i would try cleaning the TB itself.. Mines been sticking too and it's really getting on my nerves. I just need to get around to cleaning it. Had to do it on another car before.

 

also, check the butterfly valve inside the throttle; there could be some carbon build-up. clean that out, and it may help

 

I took a video of the throttle body after i had it out. There is indeed a thick sludge around the butterfly that is coming off slowly but surely it's quite the pain.

Heres a vid that I took of the throttle sticking you can see how much pressure it took to move it at first.


(gotta put http part in sorry)

s646.photobucket.com/albums/uu189/Kevin_315/?action=view&current=video-2010-06-01-16-45-14.flv

I'm assuming that this is the IAC? if so then wheres the TPS? and is there anyway to test to see if either are bad? I THINK it's just the gunk but obviously I wont know till its clean.

s646.photobucket.com/albums/uu189/Kevin_315/?action=view&current=2010-06-01171901.jpg

 

Tonight the car started reving from 1k to 4k up and down constantly and threw codes p0102 and p0121 which autozone told me are the TPS and MAF. I'm assuming the codes are correct for our cars? (I know sometimes the codes are dif depending on the vehicle)
Also if this IS the case then is it possible one was going out and caused the other to crap out too or is it possible its one issue throwing both codes? It's nights like these I hate my life lol.
:3_frusty:

:bsmeter: <--- my life at the moment lol

 

Make sure your tps has the grey plug and the iac (bigger black thing on tb) has black plug. These swapped will cause problems. Seeing you removed tb, also make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.

 

I just added three pictures to here http://s646.photobucket.com/albums/uu189/Kevin_315/Tiburon/ It appears I have 2 black plugs and no grey plugs though I'm almost positive I put them back where they were before.

 

Yes, from those pics looks like it is correctly connected. See the plug for the tps it has a grey band on the end where it plugs in. Check the MAF and make sure it's plugged in and the wiring in not stretched. Maybe try cleaning if that doesn't work you'll have to test with a multi meter. Also if the throttle plate is still sticking you can adjust it. There is an adjustment screw under that white plastic by the throttle plate.

 

I just wanted to make a final post saying thanks for everyones help. The throttle body needs replacing and I'm looking into options for an upgraded one. The throttle plate was digging into the casing and causing it to stick. Also the Rod was bent pretty bad though this wasn't causing the issues.

If anyone happens to be selling one feel free to pm me. It seems most places are in the range of $300 for an aftermarket one and most junkyards want 150-200 anyway so i might as well buy it new.

 

My car's a manual GK with cruise control fitted. Is the cable supposed to feel all weird and sticky when you depress the pedal? it feels like there's a resistance on the pedal.

 

1-Welcome to New Tib
2-Read the "FAQ", don't bump/reply to threads over ~1 month old except for maybe a "stickie".
2-No, the pedal should not feel stickie/stiff. Either lube the pedal pivot, or the throttle cable. I use Lock-Eze for the cabe. Disconnect it at the throttle body and feed Lock-Eze down the cable so it goes inside. Pedal pivot I use silicone spray, a light oil will also work.

Lock-Eze is a graphite lube with a fast flash off liquid. It won't gum up, change with temperature or attack plastic.