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6spdSE

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Got some goodies today from TB Performance. They custom made a 4 point chasis brace for me today and let me watch the whole process! It came out great too. After it was installed I took the car for a drive around some basically 90* turns and it was a very big improvement. The car was very very flat and it tracked through the turn very smoothly. Huge shout out to TB Performance as they hit it outta the park on this one! He said that if there is interest, he would like to do a group buy but that is not official yet.

I'm also trying to work on them to produce an SC friendly front strut bar!

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
They retail for $119 I believe or something like that. He said if he could get ten, he could do something like $100 per. All are hand made/welded in house. Black or red hi temp paint...not powder coat but it still comes out looking great.
 
Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
He did tell me the steel but I can't remember off hand. Althoguh after he welded it I watched him stand on the bar and it didn't flex at all. I'm not concerned at all about strength. I track my car on a road course once a month or so...I will find out very soon how strong it is. Like I said, I am not concerned myself. And what would be the difference between a 2 and 4 point? This bolts to 4 spots just like a other '4 point' braces.

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/rnd/?tag=/chassis-brace They call this a 4 point? It bolts up to the same spots as the TB performance one. I know its on a TC but similar idea. I'm not trying to be a dick or anything, I just want to make sure I know the difference and use the correct name to describe it...haha.
 
Same spots yes, but there's less material connecting the two sides because you have only one bar connecting the two. You actually still have some flex with that one since it's not supported on the other side I believe.
 
Discussion starter · #7 · (Edited)
Okay, I see. What about this part? They say this is a 4 point, but only two are connected. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...ondyYgEl45lU79-SKApeoY=&sa=X&ei=tOE4ULKTHsKs2gXcvoDoCA&ved=0CDIQ9QEwAw&dur=4781

And I will ammend the title to '2 point'. To be honest, I don't see how the flex that is left would be at all noticable. The amount that this '2 point' stiffened up the car was quite surprising but we do have a divorced member up front so there is LOTS of room for play. This stiffened the tight turns up by what i would estimate to be 40-60%. It just stays very flat and tracks great. I think for under $120 its a good deal. And its made in the USA, unlike some other competitors!
 
All 4 are tied in. You have a K shaped brace on that one to support all the sides. And with the main bar being on the inside of the two bolt holes, it still would have more support than where yours is placed. But theirs also has two more inside braces tying into the main support for strength.
 
Okay, I see. What about this part? They say this is a 4 point, but only two are connected. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...ondyYgEl45lU79-SKApeoY=&sa=X&ei=tOE4ULKTHsKs2gXcvoDoCA&ved=0CDIQ9QEwAw&dur=4781

And I will ammend the title to '2 point'. To be honest, I don't see how the flex that is left would be at all noticable. The amount that this '2 point' stiffened up the car was quite surprising but we do have a divorced member up front so there is LOTS of room for play. This stiffened the tight turns up by what i would estimate to be 40-60%. It just stays very flat and tracks great. I think for under $120 its a good deal. And its made in the USA, unlike some other competitors!
Maybe see if they'd do a 4pt ;)
Also, do they help with wheelhop?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I have to go back to help do the supercharger compatible front strut bar. I will see if he can add 2 more support bars or one long one across the back. And yes, wheel hop is reduced after the addition of this part.
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
Dear lord, and people wonder why aftermarket is dwindling for the tib
??? Quite the contrary...this is a new option for Tiburon owners so not sure what you mean.

And yes, it is painted, not powdercoated. It was primered and painted with high temp paint.

Unfortunately I can't link there website because someone decided that should be a rule, but please check them out if you are uneasy about their stuff. They have LOTS of bars for Mazda, Forte sedan and coup, Rio, Spectra, Acura, RX-8 etc and have sold to people world wide. Google them!
 
You look like you're having tremendous fun underneath there installing it lolkat
 
I don't know anything about those 4 points brace, but I am a little bit scared about those weld spots. It seems like there is no metal preparation before welding, the weld spots also art not flat, so I am afraid that the space between the 2 pieces is not filled with metal. Keep an attentive eye on the welding just in case you see some weird cracks.

Other than that, if it holds on correctly and you are happy with your purchase, that's what matters!
 
They seem to be MIG welded, which adds metal filler into the weld, so it will bulge out more than a TIG weld. MIG welding also is usually sloppier
 
Discussion starter · #18 · (Edited)
I believe it is MIG welded. Could the welding be better? I dont know, probably. I don't weld stuff. What I do know is that it is strong and made the car handle/feel much better. I gotta jack the car up and fix an bolt on the exhaust and do an oil change. While i'm under their I will inspect it. But he has been selling the same bars (well not EXACT same, but structurally the same) and had the under mazdas and Fiestas that have been autocrossed. Please, do the research for yourselves and look into them if you are unsure.

All I know is that it looks good and works! :3_nosthum

EDIT: Self etching is nothign special. Rustoleum Primer is self etching so I'm pretty sure its fine (what was used). It was sanded primered and painted. I don't think it will make a difference in the perforamce of the bar. And its not like I will be crawling under my car every other day to look at the pretty red bars. The first time and last time I'll see it was probably yesterday before it was installed. lol
 
I could care less about looks. Self etching on metal is used because it will actually chemically etch the primer into the metal. I'm not talking about rattle can, but real paint. If it flakes, it's susceptible to rust. If it flakes on steel where the welds are, that's where your issue lies. I'm not trying to knock the bar, his welds, or his work. I'm just trying to give you a heads up.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
The material used is 1040 Carbon steel. The reason another bar was not added was because it may interfear with the exhaust system and cause some rattling or wear.

And here in So Cal rust isn't too much of an issue. Ill keep my eye on it.
 
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