[jFlexx2]

So went to have my CEL codes scanned and these are the codes that were given to me. I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but just need a little help with where everything is and what each code means. Any advice and suggestions is greatly appreciated. TIA
View attachment 141141

So is this my ECT, just checking that I have the right location

 

[chase206]

Hard to tell by the pictures but it looks right. Should be directly underneath the ignition coils right? If you remove it and coolant spills out you probably have the right sensor.

 

[jFlexx2]

Hard to tell by the pictures but it looks right. Should be directly underneath the ignition coils right? If you remove it and coolant spills out you probably have the right sensor.

Yea that’s where it is, I had to order the NTK ECT because they didn’t have it in stock so I’ll be doing that, and also going to go ahead and do the thermostat too, either Friday when it comes in or Saturday.
Also checked my timing belt and it looks good, like it’s not that old, maybe was changed with the engine swap.
If for some reason the CEL doesn’t go off after changing the ECT?

 

[chase206]

If for some reason the CEL doesn’t go off after changing the ECT?

The ECT CEL popped up because the ECU isn't reliably able to determine the engine coolant temp. There's only 3 reasons for that. 1) Bad ECT 2) Bad wiring 3) Bad ECM. The harness that feeds the ECT and surrounding sensors is often pinched during an engine swap so intermittently you may get a weird CEL if the harness is flaky.

 

[jFlexx2]

The ECT CEL popped up because the ECU isn't reliably able to determine the engine coolant temp. There's only 3 reasons for that. 1) Bad ECT 2) Bad wiring 3) Bad ECM. The harness that feeds the ECT and surrounding sensors is often pinched during an engine swap so intermittently you may get a weird CEL if the harness is flaky.

Ok cool, thanks for all your help bro. I’m sure I’ll be posting a lot as I’m trying to get it running how I’d like. I stay on here just looking at different threads trying to learn as much as I can about the car.

 

[jFlexx2]

I would check engine mounts before anything else. There are two engine roll stoppers that can transmit vibration when worn out. Easiest & cheapest thing to start with at least.

Good way to check is to keep one foot on the brake and lightly load the engine to see how much it moves. If you have an automatic, you can switch between reverse and drive to increase the effect.

So, put the car in drive or reverse and with my foot on the brake press on the gas to see if I still feel the vibration? If not then it’s not the roll stoppers? If it does and I need to replace them does the brand of motor mount matter, or can I grab some off of carparts.com.

 

[chase206]

I think you need the variability of driving on a road with changing torque conditions for the roll stoppers being bad to show them selves. Holding the brake in gear may vibrate under special conditions indicating the mount could be bad. But if the engine performance is still poor I'd chalk up the vibration to a stumble or misfire from the engine.

 

[jFlexx2]

I think you need the variability of driving on a road with changing torque conditions for the roll stoppers being bad to show them selves. Holding the brake in gear may vibrate under special conditions indicating the mount could be bad. But if the engine performance is still poor I'd chalk up the vibration to a stumble or misfire from the engine.

Just gonna give it a test drive after I finish the ECT and see how it runs and go from there

 

[The_Evenger]

So, put the car in drive or reverse and with my foot on the brake press on the gas to see if I still feel the vibration? If not then it’s not the roll stoppers? If it does and I need to replace them does the brand of motor mount matter, or can I grab some off of carparts.com.

The point of one foot on the gas and the other on the brake is so you can physically see if the engine is moving excessively in the engine bay. There's obviously going to be some movement, but it's usually pretty obvious if the roll stopper engine mounts are toast.

 

[jFlexx2]

I think you need the variability of driving on a road with changing torque conditions for the roll stoppers being bad to show them selves. Holding the brake in gear may vibrate under special conditions indicating the mount could be bad. But if the engine performance is still poor I'd chalk up the vibration to a stumble or misfire from the engine.

So this is my car running. It sounds way worse on this video than in person, I didn’t even realize it sounded like this until I watched the video. Damn. Just from the sound can you give me any advice

 

[Charlie-III]

Sounds like a bad bearing, belt guide/tensioner, radiator fan, alternator, AC compressor, etc. Sounded worse on passenger side which is also where external bearings are.
Also, when engine cool and off, bang on heat shields in engine bay. Also look for cracks or "red dust" by mounting bolts for heat shields.

 

[chase206]

I agree with Charlie, one of your bearings/pulleys is making a racket. Can't hear much else though but it's got a rough idle.

 

[jFlexx2]

Yea I was thinking it was the power steering pulley. It seemed louder when I was closest to it. The ac compressor isn’t on the belt cause the po said it’s bad so he bypassed it.
What will banging on my heat shields tell me?

 

[jFlexx2]

I agree with Charlie, one of your bearings/pulleys is making a racket. Can't hear much else though but it's got a rough idle.

You think the rough idle could be the IACV? I plan on doing a basic tune up on it this weekend hopefully, but if there’s something else I need to look at also I can do that as well.

 

[Charlie-III]

Yea I was thinking it was the power steering pulley. It seemed louder when I was closest to it. The ac compressor isn’t on the belt cause the po said it’s bad so he bypassed it.
What will banging on my heat shields tell me?

Cracked or loose heat shields. They change sound based on RPM's and resulting frequency changes.

 

[jFlexx2]

Cracked or loose heat shields. They change sound based on RPM's and resulting frequency changes.

Oh ok, I will check that

 

[chase206]

You think the rough idle could be the IACV? I plan on doing a basic tune up on it this weekend hopefully, but if there’s something else I need to look at also I can do that as well.

IACV could be a cause. In my experience they rarely fail but are often replaced with low quality parts when people are throwing parts at their car. Is it Kefico or Bosch branded with the HMC logo?

 

[jFlexx2]

IACV could be a cause. In my experience they rarely fail but are often replaced with low quality parts when people are throwing parts at their car. Is it Kefico or Bosch branded with the HMC logo?

I will have to take a look, I’m at work and not driving it cause I don’t know what the issue is and don’t want to cause any more issues.
I did notice that the other day when I drove it after putting the ECt in that when I was going around a bend in the road it wasn’t vibrating near as bad but soon as I straightened out it started vibrating again and I was maintaining the same speed.
When I do check it what brand do I want it to be?

 

[chase206]

You want the IACV to be either Kefico or Bosch with the HMC logo. All others are junk.

 

[jFlexx2]

You want the IACV to be either Kefico or Bosch with the HMC logo. All others are junk.

Ok I will look today