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2006 2.7L ECU Removal

DIY:
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ecu
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30K views 26 replies 17 participants last post by  chase206  
#1 · (Edited)
It seems that the existing DIY for the ECU removal has missing photos - so I have provided an updated DIY for this.

Tools:
#2 Philips screw driver
Ratchet and 10mm socket; or a 10 mm wrench.
Flashlight


Before starting this process - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.

1) Open the glove box. Using a #2 Philips screw driver, remove three screws from the upper edge of the glove box. (See three pictures below)

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2) Close the glove box and remove the three screws under the bottom edge of the box. (See three photos below)

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3)Open the glove box again, grab both sides and pull straight down. Do not use excessive force, just one or two short pulls should pop it loose from the dash board.

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Note: After the compartment is loose, you will need to disconnect the glove box light located on the right side behind the box.

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4) For the next several steps, I found it easiest to recline the seat, lay on the floor with my head under the dash, my legs on the seat with my feet hanging over the top of the headrest. There are two wiring harnesses mounted to a metal bracket that looks like a goal post. Disconnect both plugs as shown below and remove the single screw that holds the bracket in place.

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5) This is where you will need some patience. Disconnecting the plugs from the ECU can be a bit tricky as there is not much room to get your hand between the ECU and the firewall to remove the plugs. Here is what I found to be the easiest for me. There are two bolts that hold the ECU in place; remove both of them and gently pull down on the ECU until it is loose.

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Note: There are two arrow-shaped prongs at the top of the ECU with rubber gromments that slide up into the top of the mounting bracket. In order to remove the ECU, you will need to gently pull down until the prongs pull all the way out. This can be done before removing the wiring harnesses or after; what ever is easiest for you.

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6) Now, you will need to remove the 5 wiring harnesses that are plugged into the ECU. Grab the base of the plugs, not the wires! The first one (closest to the floor) should come loose after slightly wiggling it back and forth until it is free of the ECU. The next three have a lever that secures the plug in the ECU. To remove these, you will need to feel around the top of the plug until you find a raised tab that holds the lever in the upright position. Push the tab down and rotate the locking mechanism down until the plug comes free from the ECU. Repeat this for the next two plugs. The last one (located at the top of the ECU) is similar to the first one. It can be removed by gently wiggling the plug back and forth until it free from the ECU.

The next several pictues show the different plugs from different angles to help understand how they lock in place and how they are removed.

Note: When reinstalling the ECU, be sure the levers that lock the plugs in place are in the unlocked position until the plug is pushed all the way into th ECU. If they are not, they will not stay in place and your car will likely not start.

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The ECU should now be free from the bracket and can be removed from under the dash.
 
#2 ·
Re: DIY: ECU Removal - 2006 V6

great diy sticky
 
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#5 ·
Re: DIY: 2006 2.7L ECU Removal

palmpalm said:
Cool DIY but I don't get it. Why would you want to remove the ECU?
Click to expand...
hooking up tuners, installing a standalone fuel system, connecting a wire for shift light, ect.
 
#6 ·
Re: DIY: 2006 2.7L ECU Removal

I am going to bring this DIY back from the dead and add a few inputs. For those that have never taken the glove compartment out or if the grove compartment has never been taken out before, there is maybe another step for removing it. First, after removing the (6) screws you will need to know that the glove compartment is still held in position by (2) clips that are mounted on (2) plastic posts on the glove compartment itself on the left and right sides. These posts insert into (2) notches which are part of the hard plastic frame of the glove compartment support bracket that is attached to the dashboard metal frame. They probably help give support to hold the left and right center of the glove compartment as you have to push the center of both sides to get them to snap back in to place before securing the screws back in. This is why you have to tug on the glove compartment several times to remove it. Once you finally remove the glove compartment, make sure that the metal clips are still on the plastic posts, if not, you will need to look for them laying on the floor or around the edge of the back side of the glove compartment. However, you can probably put the glove compartment back on without them, but the plastic glove compartment may warp in the center over time.
Second, yes, you have to unplug the glove compartment light cable. The plastic plug is of course the notch and clip type to make it stay in place securely. Always a PITA when trying to remove. But something is wrong here, the glove compartment would not come out, it felt as though it was caught on something and it was difficult to see what. Directly behind the socket that you remove the light plug from was a plastic wire tie going from the glove compartment and wrapping around one of the fat wire cables under the dash. If this has happened to you or is going to happen, you are going to think to yourself, why in the hell did they wire tie the glove compartment to that thick a$$ cable. Well, it seems that they wire tied the cable to the glove compartment to hold the cable in place. That damn cable is so think it wasn't going to move anyways.
Third, removing the cables from the ECU is a REAL PITA, especially if you have fat fingers. You have to start with the bottom plug first and work your way upwards and all (5) plugs are clipped in one way or another. Take all the time you need and you have to be very very patient. Also, do not push the rubber grommets that secure the ECU at the top through their mounting holes. You will surely regret this. Either remove them after taking the stock ECU out and then place them oin the new ECU or carefully replace the new ECU to thread it back into the grommets. The easiest way I found to remove the plugs from the ECU was do the first (2) plugs with the ECU attached to the frame and then remove the ECU from the frame and pull downward and remove the remaining (3) plugs. Note: the three center plugs use a lever type clamp to secure the plugs, the clip in the center of the plug has to be depressed before the handle will slide downwards to remove the plug and just as so, once the plug is lined up with the socket, the handle will slide upwards as the plug is being depressed into the socket and will need to snap into place to securely hold. Just make sure that you line the plug correctly with the socket, the pins on the ECU are small and you DO NOT want to bend any. This part was the most time consuming and the greatest degree of difficulty as there is almost no room to work . More so than any, you will need to find the position that you want to work in to change out the ECU. I did the work from outside the passenger door and twisted around under the dash. I couldn't do the lay upside down over the seat head under the dash trick.

After the installation and reconnecting the battery, I was anxious to see if the car would start. Everything started just fine, no CEL. I drove around for a bit and could tell almost immediately that the power came on strong and there was definately more torque through the entire powerband. The sound from the intake and catback exhaust sounded way better. Through every gear the car just kept pulling and pulling and I even did this going uphill as well as on the flats. I don't even have the headers on yet, and I can't wait. NGM I/H/E reflash, it is everything that TC said it would be and I have to say that it is the best $500.00 that I have sepent on performance for the Tiburon.
 
#10 ·
Re: DIY: 2006 2.7L ECU Removal

Don't be intimidated! Remember, point to the part you need to take off, and remove everything that's connected to it hehe.

Seriously though, The two tabs are 2.3" down from the top corners and are the same type the center facia (radio surround) is held on by. After that, the harnesses and ECU are easy to locate.
 
#11 ·
Re: DIY: 2006 2.7L ECU Removal

M.Kyle said:
Don't be intimidated! Remember, point to the part you need to take off, and remove everything that's connected to it hehe.

Seriously though, The two tabs are 2.3" down from the top corners and are the same type the center facia (radio surround) is held on by. After that, the harnesses and ECU are easy to locate.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice bro but you know pictures are very helpful if I have any trouble ill be sure to message you :)
 
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#12 ·
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#13 ·
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#14 ·
Search on youtube with Elricdelyon then check my videos.
 
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#23 ·
You don't really need the photos it's not the hardest thing in the world. Read the steps and watch the video linked earlier and you can figure it out. Heck, just get down there and look and you'll see what needs to be done. The OP hasn't been seen on this forum in over 10 years so there's 0 chance the photos are coming back.
 
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U
#24 ·
Thanks for the reply,
My car is a Hyundai Coupe sii 1.6 2008.United Kingdom
I have attached 2 Pictures .
The view is the passenger side my left .
I have removed the glove compartment and this is what I see
I am trying to figure out how to remove the lower blower and filter to get at the ecu which is circled in red.
Ant thoughts..
Image
Image
 
#25 ·
I could be wrong but that doesn't look like the ECU--are there several plugs going into it? I'm not familiar with RHD Tibs and I'm not sure if it's a mirror image but on LHD Tibs the HVAC system is not in the way at all. The ECU is mounted lower behind that little kick panel. I'd try removing that and see. Or if you're sure that's the ECU it looks like there are screws going up into the blower motor housing.
 
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#27 ·
Ahhh you have the RHD car so the ECU is a little harder to access. I also see that you have the Kefico ECU which means you have the 1.6L variant. You shouldn't need to remove the blower motor to gain access to it though. I've had clients I sent ECUs to in RHD countries and they haven't mentioned anything about removing their blower fan.

Curious as to why you're attempting to remove the ECU though? If you're having some trouble with your car and need help diagnosing it, open a new thread describing your issue.
 
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