[MeccaMan]

Well today I drove through a puddle that appeared to be small,but was extremely deep,hopefully since I was going grandma speed cause it was pouring the rain also,anyways to continue on,I make it 5 houses down from my house and my car stops giving gas,jumped for a couple,and just stopped moving,turned the car off and sat for 5 mins,started it back up and made it to my driveway,to make sure it was fine turned the car off and on then had rough idle and stopped running,took off my intake completely,the UIM looks dry,the intake was extremely hot,removed the intake and cleaned the MAF and filter(letting them dry as we speak,hoping its dry tomorrow and going try to start the car Sunday.. :/

Also no ticking noises coming from the car,anyone want to put any inputs..:squint::squint::squint:

 

[Takahashi240]

If you started it up again, it is not hydrolocked. The key term in "hydrolocked" is "locked".

 

[NewTibOwner2011]

You probably sucked some dirt in the intske system. Try to buy some MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner, and clean everything between the UIM and the air filter.

 

[MeccaMan]

If you started it up again, it is not hydrolocked. The key term in "hydrolocked" is "locked".

Well the UIM has water in it,gave up tonight,every 10mm bolt i took off just broke off..
So going have to do some shopping -_-

 

[MeccaMan]

Update to OP every 10mm bolt i took off broke off... UIM does have some water inside it..

 

[NewTibOwner2011]

But still, if you were able to start it afterwards, it means that it is not hydrolocked.

A small amout of water can go inside without cause problem (I guess), it's when you get a lot of water that it can cause problem. Let the water dry for a day or 2, and try to see if the engine goes well or not.

 

[MeccaMan]

But still, if you were able to start it afterwards, it means that it is not hydrolocked.

A small amout of water can go inside without cause problem (I guess), it's when you get a lot of water that it can cause problem. Let the water dry for a day or 2, and try to see if the engine goes well or not.

I'll try that,but still doesnt fix how the 10mm bolts literally broke off completely..:dunno:
Everything was going great,all my parts are almost here for the supercharger build,then this..

 

[Charlie-III]

Re: Possible Hydro lock

Hydro-locked means you have more liquid in one or more cylinders than space when the piston is at/near TDC. When the piston tried to come up, it hits the liquid which is "non-compressible" meaning it may as well be a chunk of steel in there and the piston will STOP.

At higher revs, hydro-locking can & will bend connecting rods or blow out the top of a piston.

If you think you hydro-locked an engine, pull the plugs, kill the coil power & crank it over to pump the liquid out. At worst it will start like crap until the cylinders dry out and the exhaust clears.

 

[jp2039]

should be fine my tib did the same thing the day after i installed my sri it had rained really really bad the night before and when i went to start it in the morning there must have been water in the engine bay. i gave it some gas and it didn't stall it had a rough idle for a minute then all was perfect.

 

[ViCiouS_TiBuroN]

take the lower manifold off as well, manually crank the shaft to open each valve. using a shop vac or blower through each valve will make any water come out the spark plug holes.

When i hydro'd, simply cranking didn't get the water out. Also check your oil. Milky = water and needs a change

 

[Anthony]

A solution for the ticking!

 

[dlanes]

Hydro-locking the engine is when the engine sucks in water and it can't compress it (because water is a hydraulic). You can literally pour water in the engine while it's running and cause no ill effects because a small amount will vaporize (turn to steam). Its when you suck in A LOT of water is what causes hydro-lock which usually happens when the air filter (like a cold air intake) is submerged in water (like a large puddle). A lot of cases if you hydro lock pull the spark plugs out and crank the motor over and spray out the water and do an oil change and are fine. In extreme cases the engine sucks in water and the hydraulics bends/breaks internal parts.

 

[Charlie-III]

Re: Possible Hydro lock

take the lower manifold off as well, manually crank the shaft to open each valve. using a shop vac or blower through each valve will make any water come out the spark plug holes.

When I hydro'd, simply cranking didn't get the water out. Also check your oil. Milky = water and needs a change

While it's best to get ALL the water out, if you get the majority out (basically, enough so you don't bend expensive bits) you will be fine. The engine will start, run a bit crappy (until the engine has expelled the rest of the water & the cylinder is firing) and then be fine.
Changing the oil won't hurt, but not likely needed unless you submerged the whole engine. Since there are typically no crankcase openings in modern engines (automotive/truck) due to emissions crap, there is very little way to get water into an engine.

 

[Charlie-III]

Re: Possible Hydro lock

Hydro-locking the engine is when the engine sucks in water and it can't compress it (because water is a hydraulic). You can literally pour water in the engine while it's running and cause no ill effects because a small amount will vaporize (turn to steam). Its when you suck in A LOT of water is what causes hydro-lock which usually happens when the air filter (like a cold air intake) is submerged in water (like a large puddle). A lot of cases if you hydro lock pull the spark plugs out and crank the motor over and spray out the water and do an oil change and are fine. In extreme cases the engine sucks in water and the hydraulics bends/breaks internal parts.

Correct, this is what we did on older engines that had carbs & were burning oil. Start the car, get the engine up to temp, remove air cleaner, pour cold water down the carb a bit at a time (while adding throttle to keep it running).
The cold water hit the carbon on the piston tops and caused it to flake off and go out the exhaust.

Note, the carbon could get hot and cause detonation/preignition if left alone. Especially if running cheaper gas.

 

[dlanes]

Re: Possible Hydro lock

Correct, this is what we did on older engines that had carbs & were burning oil. Start the car, get the engine up to temp, remove air cleaner, pour cold water down the carb a bit at a time (while adding throttle to keep it running).
The cold water hit the carbon on the piston tops and caused it to flake off and go out the exhaust.

Note, the carbon could get hot and cause detonation/preignition if left alone. Especially if running cheaper gas.

Yup, you can still use it on modern engines. You just need to add it after the maf. It's kinda like adding sea-foam via brake booster. Water also works good as an cooler such as a water/methanol injection system.