I wish you luck with this project! I bought mine in a not-too-dissimilar state. It drove fine from the seller's house to mine, but stuff started going bad not too long after I started getting a feel for it. Loose rear suspension bushings, torn steering rack boot, then an engine tick and metal in the oil that turned out to be caused by a seized timing belt tensioner and completely obliterated cam chain guides (after a lot of "I wonder what it could be", "I replaced a part at random" and "I think I fixed it you guys! Oh wait no it's still broken" that's documented in a thread I posted here) - as I got that fixed I started discovering a whole heaping load of rust and electronics problems (and in the process of fixing the rust my buddy created some fire damage) that led me to leaving the car on jackstands for over a year now. It still turns on and idles fine, though, so once I actually get the last of the rust issues fixed, some preliminary painting done and three more shocks, springs and brakes replaced, I'm hopeful it'll pass MOT and be a good summer car again - might even last me a few summers, with 290k km (about 180k miles) on the odometer and a whole load of fresh auxiliary engine parts.

My trunk liner looked much less bad than yours, but it's going to need to be completely replaced with a custom deck. Apparently the previous owner had some oil or similar chemical leak in the trunk and that ate through the hard wood pulp material that the trunk liner is made of. I'll just try to free-hand mine out of plywood and glue some rubber mat on the bottom and regular trunk carpet on the top. In my case I'll also need to make a couple of vent holes above the spare wheel well, as I replaced the spare with a subwoofer.

My unsolicited suggestions for what you should start tackling first, is to get the car up on ramps (a plastic ramp under all four wheels, use a jack under the rear and front subframes to lift the car) and remove the side skirts to look for rust. Mine were completely gone; together with a friend we hand-fabricated and welded up replacements. This was a lot of work. You could also lift the car up on properly cushioned jackstands by the subframes and take the wheels and fender liners off and look for more rust. These cars have a tendency to accumulate dust and moisture around the weld seams, rot through, and let dust and moisture into the chassis cavities.

Also check the subframes for rust. Those are kind of critical to the project - new rear subframes can be had for ~$200 online, so a bit of rust there is not a big deal, but I've not seen new front subframes for sale, so having that rust through would potentially be a car killer. The 2.0 and V6 front subframes are different, so finding a replacement at a junkyard might also not be a trivial thing.

Also, I'd suggest double checking the previous owner's parts replacements. If the engine developed a "tick" and he just started throwing parts at it, he may have created completely new problems, such as the misfire issue. New parts don't necessarily mean good parts. Also, brands matter, especially on these cars - they're very picky about the electronics connected to the ECU. Denso, Mando, NGK/NTK and Siemens/Continental along with original Hyundai parts are usually the only ones that work; make sure to check for part-specific "acceptable brands" here on the forum.


Anyway, again, I wish you luck in your endeavor! Do your best to document your progress, and welcome to the forum!

 

Sounds like you had quite the journey yourself. Thank you for all the good information!! This is why I prefer forums over FB haha. I appreciate it very much. I have done some diagnosis and it doesn't look too great so far. I'll be updating it on this thread soon.

I am in dry souther US so we don't really have rusty cars unless a repair wasn't done right, which...mine has evidence of. Driverside rear quarter has a rust spot so I'll be addressing that asap.

 

Welcome! Word of advice, check for water leaks in the trunk. The carpet looks like it might have mold on it, and I'd throw it out ASAP if it does.

Looks like you had the infinity subwoofer at some point & for some reason it was removed. I'd either try to source one (if the AMP and wiring is still there) or get a carpet for the trunk without one. It also might be more worth while to just make a new floor board out of plywood or something. I bought a tib with a spare tire cover that was collapsed & ended up stripping the carpet off it & making a new one out of plywood.

That's a fair amount of front end damage, looks like the headlight is pushed back into the body. Perfect excuse to give the front end a facelift!

 

Thank you. Trunk is definitely wet. I put it out in the sun with the hatch open so it can bake some. I will throw the floor panels! They are no good.

I was wondering why mine had the infinity sound system but no sub. Probably was removed like you said. I got 2 tiburons in my local yard, I"ll have to check it out after I go over the whole car and see what I need.

FL bumper - for sure in the works!!!

 

I received some pictures from the PO on the rebuild. Not much I can tell from the pics but looks fairly normal in my eyes.

On the drive back home, I noticed that on 3rd gear, the car doesn't really accelerate. I also didn't notice any flashing CELs even though I felt the misfire. So I pulled the CELs and now I realize the CEL bulb is either out, or PO took it out. I don't want to think that it was removed but I will have to remove the gauges to see lol. Since I have the codes, the bulb isn't really a concern right now...Here are the codes:

1. P0300 - random/multiple misfire
2. P0301 - Cyl 1 misfire
3. P0303 - Cyl 3 misfire
4. P0305 - Cyl 5 misfire
5. P1166 - Manufacture control (too rich)
6. P1167 - Manufacture control x2 (too lean)
7. P0501 - Vehicle speed sensor A range/performance x 2

The Cyl 1, 3, 5 is concerning. I think the timing might be off? Anyways, I am going to take off the timing cover and inspect tonight!

Got fresh oil and something to cover up the horrible smell.

 

The Cyl 1, 3, 5 is concerning. I think the timing might be off

That would be the whole rear head. Hopefully there's not been contact between the pistons and valves (though the tick could indicate otherwise... 💀) - if I had to guess the previous owner screwed up the timing belt install by placing the belt on, thinking it was in time and then pulled the pin on the timing belt tensioner and either didn't re-check timing or didn't care that it was off by a tooth or two.
What happens is that when the tensioner is released it will yank the belt quite hard, causing the rear head cam to rotate backward by a tooth or so. After you line everything up in time you have to turn the rear head cam forward by a tooth or hold the belt excessively tight with a prybar before pulling the pin.

Dollars to donuts the previous owner did none of that, maybe even noticed that the cam tweaked back and figured it would be a pain to take the tensioner off again, "it's fine, just send it", and took out the CEL bulb when he couldn't figure out why the engine was ticking and the CEL was flashing, then decided to just call it "lifter tick" and play ignorant when selling.

Take off the accessory belt and power steering pump pulley, then remove the top timing belt cover, turn the engine by hand and line up the crank and front head (edit: well.. I suppose it's enough to just line up the timing dot on the front head and valve cover to verify, no need to pay attention to the crank since the front head is supposedly in time). I bet the rear head is late by one or two teeth.

This guy does that exact mistake, but catches himself. I timestamped the video.

Edit 2: just watched your video, you have a new subscriber.

Edit 3: Since you said you're kinda new to mechanic work, I'll add some things that might be obvious to you, but bears saying regardless.

• As a precaution you should pull either the battery or the INJ fuse before you start turning the engine over by hand.
• The engine will be hard to turn unless you take out all six spark plugs - you don't need to do that, but you also won't necessarily notice binding or valve contact if you're fighting compression. If you know how the engine is supposed to feel with the plugs in, you can feel a compression loss issue when turning it with the plugs in, but since this car and engine is new to you, that test is moot.
• Never EVER turn an assembled interference engine's crank counter-clockwise. Always turn it clockwise. Turning it counter-clockwise will release tension on the timing belt, making you likely to lose timing and putting you in danger of piston-to-valve contact.

 

I would check the timing immediately.

The check engine light is actually one of the 3 bulbs in our cluster that's an actual bulb. Those being: AIR BAG, CEL, and Oil Pressure. All others are LED. Point is, there's a chance that the CEL was on for so long that the bulb burnt out. But it's also easy to simply remove the bulb. My first tiburon had the PO remove the air bag bulb to hide the fault.

I've never seen air/fuel ratio codes on a tiburon before, I guess that means you have one of the early 03s that had wideband o2 sensors instead of narrow band sensors. I wouldn't jump straight to sensors on those codes, if you have timing issues you might get those codes as a side effect.

The service manual doesn't have any section for those codes, so I can't see what code set criteria is unfortunately.

There is a single plug near the fuel pressure regulator that runs all the injectors on the rear bank. Check to make sure that's plugged in, the engine will run with in unplugged (and surprisingly well too).

 

The GK never got a wideband sensor. Both variants are narrowbands but the voltage range is what differs from 0-5v or 0-1v.

I would inspect the upstream O2 sensor and harness of bank1 first before tearing into the motor to check timing since it's more invasive for the latter. As always use only OEM sensors for the upstream location. Hyundai, NTK, Mando or Denso are the accepted brands.

Hopefully your timing is good and it's just the bank1 sensor causing you grief.

 

Hopefully your timing is good and it's just the bank1 sensor causing you grief.

Well.. I'd be skeptical of the O2 sensor, too, if it was just a lean/rich code on bank 1, but there are active misfires on all three rear cylinders, which would indicate a major issue with valves or fuel supply. So if it's not a loose injector harness, it would be pertinent to inspect timing.

After all, that's just cracking loose the nut on the power steering pump pulley, disconnecting the accessory belt, removing the PS pulley and then taking out the six bolts holding on the upper timing belt cover.
Getting the accessory belt back on is a bit of a fight as the tensioner can be quite tight and finding the right 3/8" ratchet or breaker that fits in there can cause a bit of frustration.
"Pro" tip for putting the PS pump pulley back on without having the accessory belt on: use a rubber strap type oil filter wrench to hold the wheel stationary. The pulley is held on with a nut and a lock washer, and the torque spec for the nut is quite low. I've not managed to find out the exact torque spec, but it's in the 20-30 Nm range, i.e. "wrist tight with a 1/4" ratchet".

Edit: ...or maybe not? Seems it can be sent quite hard according to this picture
Edit 2: derp, disregard that: wrong pump.

 

Welp, I think this is an abrupt end to the excitement. You all were right on point it seems, although I have not been able to check the timing yet (see below why).

I changed the oil today. First off it had on a Microgard trash filter.

But even more concerning is the metal flakes in the oil haha! It's giving me heartache since day one.

So next I tried to check the timing but found the little square to put the wrench in to relieve tension on the serp belt is completely broken off. I assume whoever did the engine rebuild broke it.

time to look for a new engine, or too soon to know? I think my one saving grace is the fact that the rebuild was done 1000 miles ago and the oil has not been changed since, so the metal flakes are just residuals from the rebuild. But I somehow doubt that...I don't know at this point. Any tips on how to get that tensioner loose?

 

The metal flakes can be residuals from the cam chains making contact with the guides, or some rebuild work.. but I've got an increasingly low opinion of the workmanship of the previous owner, to put it mildly, so I'd be suspect of any and all "rebuilding" he claims to have done.

You might be able push down on the serp belt tensioner with some a crowbar or something, enough to slip the belt off a roller - any roller - to check the timing. You're probably gonna want a completely new tensioner, though, before putting the belt back.

 

You are like live support my dude!! Thanks for the quick response and tips. I will cut up the old filter and see what sparkly stuff is in there. I'm already looking into an engine hoist and a used engine but obviously it'd be nice to not have to do that.

I also have high doubts about the quality of the rebuild.

But either way, going into this $1500 project, the goal was to learn more about mechanical engine work so I won't be mad if I had to put a new engine in it. I mean my wife would be mad about me hogging the garage space but we don't talk about that around here

 

You could use a large pipe cutter or something to take the filter apart to see how much metal made it there. You might also want to drop the oil pan to explore more, though you're going to want to get a tool for that.

Something like this.. https://www.amazon.com/oil-pan-separator/s?k=oil+pan+separator


Edit: getting the oil pan back on requires playing with liquid gasket (RTV) and letting it cure for at least 12 hours before refilling the engine with oil.

 

This should be a witch hunt for wrong brand sensors straight from the jump.

Ah... yes:

Here are all the things that the PO has done 1000 miles ago (car has 150k).

The oxygen sensors were indeed replaced. My question is: why? And judging by everything else I've seen thus far, there is indeed a high likelihood that they are not of an "acceptable" brand.

I also see that the cam chains and guides are not mentioned as serviced, so those might be worn down, too. That'll definitely cause a "lifter noise".

 

I would also question the origin of the injectors. Lots of "OE" injectors on the market don't perform like they should and create more problems. Stick to OEM Kefico injectors even if that means buying old junkyard injectors and cleaning them yourself.

 

I realized I never posted how the engine currently sounds like so here it is! (loud warning!). I am just blipping the throttle, so there is some rpm hang.

 

I realized I never posted how the engine currently sounds like so here it is! (loud warning!).

Well.. good news is that it doesn't sound like it's got any massive lower-end knock to my ear, but it has a somewhat similar "soft knock" as mine did with the worn cam chain guides and seized timing belt tensioner. It's definitely also not running right on half the cylinders. Could be that Chase206 is right and it's because the upstream O2 sensors are bad, or it could be that I'm right and your timing's off by several degrees.. or it could be that the tractory sound we're hearing is it just running on half the engine because of disabled injectors. We won't know more until you inspect more.

I am just blipping the throttle, so there is some rpm hang.

This car is notorious for rev hang; people have attempted to remedy it by installing idle air control restrictor plates and lighter flywheels. Both work, but you're likely to get a check engine light or occasional stalls if you go for them.

You are like live support my dude!!

I'm slowly iterating over a large-ish Enterprise Java project where the compile times are anywhere from 10 to 40 minutes and a run through a test suite is over an hour. I get somewhat bored...

 

Well.. good news is that it doesn't sound like it's got any massive lower-end knock to my ear, but it has a somewhat similar "soft knock" as mine did with the worn cam chain guides and seized timing belt tensioner. It's definitely also not running right on half the cylinders. Could be that Chase206 is right and it's because the upstream O2 sensors are bad, or it could be that I'm right and your timing's off by several degrees.. or it could be that the tractory sound we're hearing is it just running on half the engine because of disabled injectors. We won't know more until you inspect more.



This car is notorious for rev hang; people have attempted to remedy it by installing idle air control restrictor plates and lighter flywheels. Both work, but you're likely to get a check engine light or occasional stalls if you go for them.



I'm slowly iterating over a large-ish Enterprise Java project where the compile times are anywhere from 10 to 40 minutes and a run through a test suite is over an hour. I get somewhat bored...

Got it. Will check the injectors and O2 sensor. I did see some wiring hack job on the O2 sensor...this car is making me learn a lot already

I am a IT PM...hence I am on here too hahaha. I have to wait for those compiled results from my developers. So this is what they do on their downtime eh? Not a bad way to spend free time

 

Welcome to the tiburon family! If you are looking for ideas for the rear trunk space, I built a false floor in mine. One of my favorite mods I did. I removed the rear seats and continued the "trunk space". I made a video tutorial on it. Once you get everything removed and clean everything up It may be a good option for you.

 

Hey! I am a subscriber I binge watched all your Tib videos before I bought mine haha. Thanks for all the contents, you make great stuff!

 

A quick update from last night.

Since my tensioner is broken and need a new one anyway, I put that on hold. I checked the spark plugs and what do ya know, the front 3 has NGKs, the rear 3 has Bosch!!. From what I've read on the forums, these delta engines do not like Bosch. So I will be replacing those with NGKs and see if that helps any.

also, some of the plugs have oil on them. This is the worst one of all. Others have a little bit. Things are not looking good.

 

also, some of the plugs have oil on them. This is the worst one of all. Others have a little bit. Things are not looking good.

Have you checked the spark plug tube seals?
Given that the oily boi is a Bosch plug, I'm going to venture a guess that the previous owner never serviced the rear head or maybe he did the valve cover gasket but never replaced the tube seals because those need to be ordered separately and they cost money, and as he never took out the plugs he also never noticed the oil leak. The plugs will come out looking oily even if there's no oil in the combustion chamber, because the oil in the tube will immediately coat the plug as it's being threaded out.

Also, misfiring and cold starting will cause the PCV system to barf oil into the intake, so some of it could be from that, too. And of course, when cold starting or not letting the engine get into proper operating temperature for at least ~10 minutes per drive cycle, you're going to get oil coming up past the rings.

Edit: reworded for legibility. My mess is a brain.

 

Going forward, I am going to assume the worst in every scenario because if they used a microgard oil filter, and bosch plugs...who knows where else they cheaped out. I might as well say this engine was never rebuilt or worst, it wasn't rebuilt right.

That is the attitude I would have, as well. Think of yourself as a crime scene investigator.

Also the airbox clamps are broken so they just tied it around with a shoe lace. And a lot of other places have questionable things done like that. I can only laugh about it hahaha

That tracks.. And this is why you're now in CSI mode.
Since this is the quality of work the car's seen, you're probably going to need to go over everything the previous owner might have touched.

I've cold started and shut it off within 1 minute a couple times now. I need to stop doing that haha.

Yup, that'll definitely give you some excess gunk in the chambers.

the timing might be off and I can't check it until the tensioner gets here.

Oh, you can absolutely check the timing, and even run the engine without the accessory belt. You just won't have power steering, AC or battery charging until you put the accessory belt on.


Edit: not that your battery will properly charge after a startup with 1 minute or less of run time, either; I suggest you go buy yourself a wall powered battery charger so that you don't wind up with a no-crank scenario.

 

Yup those BOSCH spark plugs cause a lot of problems. Sometimes I forget that inexperienced DIYers will replace only the bank2 spark plugs and glaze over the bank1 spark plugs due to difficulty of access. Those Bosch plugs could have been installed two owners ago lol. Replace them with NGK or Denso Iridium plugs. Those NGK Copper plugs work great and all, but you'll be replacing them 3x as often and aren't worth the hassle accessing the bank1 locations with such a short interval.

 

Shortly after we bought our Tib, I caught up on maintenance. Plugs, wires, filters, oil, timing belt kit, etc. Whhen I did the plugs, 2 different types. Fronts were Champions and rears were likely original from factory NGK's with a huge gap (140K miles) on them.
Wanna talk power difference afterwards?
LOL......

 

I was thinking about how to best use my funds. I already spent money on engine oil, oil filter, oil pressure sensor (I bought a OEM on because I was getting a flickering oil light after I did an oil change), new sparkplugs...

On second though, I went back to my video clips and saw the cement color oil...I don't think there is even a point in checking the timing at this point because that oil looks like it's full of metal and I would say my engine is toast anyway.

Also, I thought you guys might get a kick out of that custom wiring job on the O2 sensor in the background.

Anyway, I am going to look for a good parts car, preferably a facelifted one so I can swap the parts.

 

Also, I thought you guys might get a kick out of that custom wiring job on the O2 sensor in the background.

Well that certainly explains the o2 sensor codes. Wire nuts are never acceptable on cars, I would replace the sensor completely.

 

Regarding metal in the oil - I don't hear catastrophic clatter from your engine, no obvious piston slap or rod knock. What I do hear is cam speed clatter whick can be caused by the cam chains.

If previous owner never replaced the chain guides or chains, that could cause a small amount of shiny shavings/glitter to get to the oil. The picture of your drained oil did not look like the kind of robot slurpee or silver paint that usually happens with catastrophic bearing failure or cylinder wear.

Before condemning the engine, I suggest you go back to check the timing belt and the belt tensioner, and pull the valve covers to check the chains and guides. You will need a small torque wrench for reassembly, and possibly some fresh small screws. I broke one while torquing it down.

Disassembly won't cost you anything. Reassembly might.

 

Honestly, I had given up on this engine but...you sure might be right, and a good used engine certainly costs more than pulling the valve cover...so I will do that! Thanks, stay tuned!

 

Now.. I watched your video, and the one thing that's still puzzling me is why the MIL would not light up even after swapping bulbs.

The workshop manual tells me the following:

This implies that the path to ground from the bulb to the ECU doesn't exist.

If I'm reading these schematics right, the signal goes out from ECU connector C133-4 pin 20 to multipurpose connector MC101 pin 5, from which it connects to the gauge cluster via connector M10-1 pin 14.

Connector C133-4 is the only connector on the ECU with 10x4 pins

Multipurpose connector MC101 is under the shifter

Here's the pinout provided in the docs - I honestly have no idea why there are two connectors shown here, perhaps different year models? Same 22 pins on both.

M10-1 should connect to the gauge cluster. Again, it's the only 10x2 connector.

SO... one idea for troubleshooting would be to disconnect the battery, then take out the gauge cluster and disconnect M10-1, then disconnect C133-4 from the ECU (it's behind the glove box on the side of the car) and stick a thin wire into the corresponding pins and do a continuity test with a multimeter to see if the electrical path exists.

Though before that, it might be worth it to pull off the shifter cover and do a visual inspection of MC101 to see if it's sustained damage.


Hope this helps.

PS: Good video, @BWTECH. I'm still sticking to my opinion that the oil didn't look that bad, but it's definitely had a hot supper and something's been rubbing in the engine. The type and amount of glitter visible is consistent with the amount I found in mine after catastrophic chain guide failure. They're supposed to have a ~2.5mm thick L-shaped layer of hard rubber-like plastic against which the chain can ride. Mine disintegrated and fell in chunks into the oil pan and galleys; I had to remove the oil pan to get all the chunks out, and as I removed the actual guides I noticed that the chains had ground decently deep grooves of approximately 1.2mm into each.

You need to redo the oil pan gasket anyway - it's an RTV job - so while you're at it, you can fish out the chunks if there are any.

PPS (added after edit): If the car was tampered with in order to disable the CEL through this wiring, I somehow doubt it was done by the guy you bought it from, as figuring out which wire to sabotage and where requires an amount of intelligence and care that the previous owner's "fixes" have not demonstrated. If the ground path is fine, then your problem is either in the ECU or in the gauge cluster itself, at which point I'm doubtful that the failure is due to sabotage, and will instead lean more towards moisture ingress or accidental damage through careless insertion and extraction of plugs (which I am inclined to believe might have been caused by the guy you bought it from).

No, I'm not sorry for being mean towards him. He's been acting like a goomba.

 

This implies that the path to ground from the bulb to the ECU doesn't exist.

I can't see your picture above this text, but the ECU provides the path to ground. The bulbs (and the wires to their switches) are always hot with 12V provided from the cluster. The ECU pulls that 12V down to ground when it wants to illuminate the CEL. Same with every other light on the cluster.

A better way to check circuit integrity is to measure voltage for the CEL on it's pin. if the CEL is suppose to be on, you should see 0V and have a bright light if you probe it using a test light connected to battery positive. If you see 12V, then the ECU is either not capable of pulling it down or there's an open in the harness. Then you'd need to go to the ECU to do the same test.

 

Damn picture loading issue... they load fine for me on multiple browsers. Perhaps this has something to do with content delivery networks and global load balancing, i.e. CloudFlare?

The picture above that is a snip from the workshop manual that says


CHECK ENGINE Indicator
Battery voltage is applied to the indicator bulb from fuse 17 with the ignition in ON or START. The ground of the indicator is controlled by the engine control module. The control module will light the indicator when the engine is not running or when it detects a problem.


After that are pictures of C133-4, the location and pinout of MC101, as well as the pinout of M10-1.

The test I suggested was specifically to rule out the wiring, which is (in my opinion) the least fun part of the equation to check. If the ECU is bad, Chase might want it and might be able to sell a new one. If the cluster is bad it might well be repairable by basic board repair.

 

Something is definitely weird, the image is finally loading now.

The reason I don't like continuity tests is because it doesn't load the circuit. In addition to that, you would need to access the ECU / connector to do a continuity test which is not easy.

It's far easier to remove the cluster and measure the voltage on the CEL pin, that will tell you everything you need to know about circuit integrity, at least as far as if the issue is cluster or ECU/Harness related.

If you measured that pin & got 12V, then you know the issue is either with the harness or ECU. but, if you got 0V, then you know the ECU and harness are not the primary cause of the issue. Moreover, if you use a test light hooked to battery positive & it lights when probing the CEL pin, then you know the harness & ECU are good (if the light is commanded on). Similarly, if you probe the CEL pin with the test light hooked to battery negative, you should see the CEL (dimly) light & see a (dim) light on your test light (if the ECU isn't already commanding the bulb on).

You can easily rule out the whole ECU and harness with a simple test light at the cluster connector, which is why it's my go-to tool of choice for these kinds of issues. trying to measure continuity on the wire is both unreliable for marginal connections, and very tedious IMO.

 

I went to the junkyard and got some interior misc things...it's in the little details after all.

One mystery is (kind of) solved. I plugged in a junkyard cluster and the CEL came on. So the previous owner(s) definitely did something to the cluster itself. Too bad I can't use it since it has 225k miles on it (mine has 150k).

The junkyard one (came out of an 05-06) has two rows of digits, whereas mine has 1. and it has an extra plug unlike mine.

Also completely replaced the intake box. The current one is not even air tight because the metal clips are broken. PO tied the box with a shoe lace. Nice.

Clean

Dried

On! I replaced the broken clamps too so now it is officially air tight.

My cluster front screen was cracked in half, so I replaced it with the junkyard one, polished with plastic-X all good now!

Before:

During:

After (I took care of the few remaining spots but don't have a pic of it lol)

 

I also got the silver accented vent rings for $2.63 a piece...figured it was worth a shot even if I break them.

well...I broke them lol. Gonna get some new ones from Sharkracing in the future.

Also cracked the alu trim dash...this one was a heartbreaker.

Also got the steel dead pedal to match the rest of the pedals.

Before:

During:

After:

 

Good pickups! Nothing better than good junkyard finds. Which is reminding me to get my butt over to my local yard to see what I can find!

 

It concerns me that you're driving the car when we know there's issues with the timing and something making metal to metal contact..
You do you, but I'd get the engine checked first, as a priority, and not drive the car. While at the junkyard you could have gotten yourself the accessory belt tensioner from the other car.


Regarding gauge clusters, I think the one you picked up is for an automatic. I'm not sure if it would be fully compatible with a manual when used or if a constant error code would be present.
We do know from The Evenger's testing that four-banger and V6 gauge clusters are not compatible, as an I4 cluster plugged into a V6 car will over-report the RPM. I remember him suspecting that the RPM signal is provided as a raw injection rate pulse that the cluster interprets.

 

It concerns me that you're driving the car when we know there's issues with the timing and something making metal to metal contact..
You do you, but I'd get the engine checked first, as a priority, and not drive the car. While at the junkyard you could have gotten yourself the accessory belt tensioner from the other car.


Regarding gauge clusters, I think the one you picked up is for an automatic. I'm not sure if it would be fully compatible with a manual when used or if a constant error code would be present.
We do know from The Evenger's testing that four-banger and V6 gauge clusters are not compatible, as an I4 cluster plugged into a V6 car will over-report the RPM. I remember him suspecting that the RPM signal is provided as a raw ignition speed pulse that the cluster interprets.

Thanks for the concern brother. I don't drive the car. It's not a daily driver.

The two at the junkyard were both I4s. I didn't see a tensioner...maybe they were already pulled? Do the I4s have the same tensioner as the V6? If so I will go back there and check again!!!

 

No, unfortunately the tensioner is V6 specific. You could find one in any car that the Delta/G6BA was used in - Hyundai Coupe/Tiburon, Sonata, Santa Fe, Trajet, Tucson, Grandeur, Kia Sportage, Kia Optima or Oullim Spirra.

 

If I find a Spirra in a US junkyard, tensioner is not the only thing I'm grabbing hahaha.

Man I didn't think to check the other hyundai products...there's gotta be one there. I gotta go back for sure. Thanks.