Fingers crossed my brother!

 

That's great! Can't wait to see what this turns out to be. Get that tuning done so we can remember why we miss Duffdaddy.

 

Excuse my dumb question, I don't really follow the Tiburon tuner scene, but what are most people using to tune their setups (i.e. piggy back, standalone, chipped ECU)?

 

People use piggyback/standalones as well as some reflashes.

If you DD your car you should probably have a filter. How much room you got?

 

Yeah the lack of filter makes me a little nervous. The room looks to be verrryy snug. I could maybe fit one of those mushroom looking things in there. It looked close enough to not be able to fit a filter and it was nearly 5am so I said **** it.

I am running an SAFC2.

I had zero problems tuning in the 290cc injectors before I installed the turbo but ever since I put it in, I've been running REALLY rich. I can't seem to get it down from 10-11. I've also got a CEL that I can't remember the name of but it was something about 02 adjustment malfunction which I'm assuming means the ECU can't adjust any further. I am able to dial in WOT just fine it seems, though.

I think I'm going to reset the ECU and try tuning down the low throttle on the SAFC even further before I start up the car for the 'first time' to try and get things in a reasonable area before STFT kicks in? Sound like it would work? It's weird to me, though, that I could tune down the low throttle trims to -35% and it was close enough and the ECU would fix the rest. My high throttle trims were more around -17% or so for an average across the board. I am so far only able to tune the high throttle trims and I'm at like -40% and I'm still running rich????

The only other concern I've got is that the turbo makes a slight grinding noise after I power off the car and it spins down... maybe just a lack of oil? I've never been around a turbo. Also my oil is a bit low and I am due for a change. It is also an Ebay turbo, it could just be crap. I could just pick up another for 150 or so. Also my GF dropped it off of a table onto carpet ~1.5 feet. It seems to run just fine though! Loving it so far!! I tuned 3000-4000 or so in the few moments I had today from a ridiculous 9-10 up to 12 and it feels great! Just need the time off to dial everything in.

 

Can't you just use cheese clothe or a tightly woven fabric?

 

For starters, crack the oil feed line to see if the turbo is recieving oil from your block. Make sure its not trying t sieze up on you. Second, Im sure you can search for an answer to the air filter problem, I Remember seeing people talk about fittment issues a lot back when I saw more duffer kits being put together. You could also message caconman, he has a duffer kit in his car but I think he lacks a driver side headlight atm And as far as your short term fuel trims, have you taken fuel away from your injectors in closed loop? There's a good read over in the engine management system page about tuning that will help you out a lot. I was reading because Im going to be putting 490cc in my car. The formula that was shown was:

-1*(190cc/xxxcc - 1)

So for you its:

-1*(190/290 - 1) = 0.344xxxxxxx

So you need to set all of your closed loop areas on your injector map to -34% because your ECU is tuned to run 190cc's, but you have 290cc's in it. I ran 290cc's in my car and the ECU adjusted fine, but I have an FL2. So I would try that, and then drive it lighly around the block a few times and watch what your short term and long term fuel trims adjust to. And go from there.

 

Maybe you should take a little more fuel in closed loop.. using the formula given above, i remember that those injectors are rated at 310cc @ 42psi... In my case I had to take away 40%

 

When you get it figured out you will have to meet up some time this summer with the rest of us from MN. I am very curious to see this in person as I was thinking on getting a turbo for awhile but just gave up because looked like too much work and got a sniper instead. I still need to install it this winter. Good luck on the tuning!!!

 

Grinding noise taken care of, it was just a wire loom playing with my radiator fan. :]

And an interesting development today:

I was zipping up and down the main road near my house tuning in my fuel when all of a sudden the car completely lost power for a split second. I backed off the throttle and eased it up the road. A little bit later it was running terribly. My A/Fs started swinging all over the place from 10 to 16 and ****. So I went to the SAFC2 to look at the sensor check menu and the MAF voltage was dancing from 0.something all the way up to 2.something.

At this point I was pulling into a gas station and the car was trying it's hardest to stay on. Driving at this point was useless. Due to the readings I got from the AF and from the SAFC2, I decided to unplug the MAF and try limping home. This got me home, although still running terribly. I parked in the garage and took the truck to work.

I called around to find an MAF that I could have my GF go pick up while I was at work. The only one available was a remanufactured unit from autozone. After looking at it, it's the type with the resistors inside the unit on the little wires. Hopefully this won't cause any problems. I'm about to go install it in a minute and hoping that this is the problem.

I also broke off one side of the plastic that aims the air into the MAF while installing it because Duffer's tubes were a little too long. That coupled with the questionable condition it used to be in (I've had intermittent power loss issues for a looong time) could possibly explain why I wasn't able to dial in the injectors properly like I was able to before the turbo install and what happened today.

Off to the garage..

Phoebus, definitely! I made it to one of the RK meets over the summer and found a few tibs to park next to. If you were there, I was the guy in the slammed silver tib who didn't say anything to anybody or introduce myself at all. :] I also didn't have much to show off, I just came to look. Next season!


EDIT: Reset ECU, installed new MAF, set low and high fuel trims to -35% across the board before turning on the car. The MAF seemed to have everything fixed at idle. I mean, at least it was idling. Still around the 10-11 for some reason... I let the car warm all the way up and then went for a very tame walk around the block. It ran just fine for about five minutes and then my AFs started dancing around from 9 to 16. Right when I saw this happen I backed off the throttle and it stopped. I sat for a minute and the idle began to dip around 500 and the car would almost turn off and then it bounced right back up. When it reached the bottom of it's dip, the gauge cluster lights flicked off for a second. This is pretty much what was happening earlier today. Sound like an alternator? If so why would this affect my AFs? Input/help please! I'm not sure what this is. I'm done outside for tonight, time for research.

 

Grinding noise taken care of, it was just a wire loom playing with my radiator fan. :]

And an interesting development today:

I was zipping up and down the main road near my house tuning in my fuel when all of a sudden the car completely lost power for a split second. I backed off the throttle and eased it up the road. A little bit later it was running terribly. My A/Fs started swinging all over the place from 10 to 16 and ****. So I went to the SAFC2 to look at the sensor check menu and the MAF voltage was dancing from 0.something all the way up to 2.something.

At this point I was pulling into a gas station and the car was trying it's hardest to stay on. Driving at this point was useless. Due to the readings I got from the AF and from the SAFC2, I decided to unplug the MAF and try limping home. This got me home, although still running terribly. I parked in the garage and took the truck to work.

I called around to find an MAF that I could have my GF go pick up while I was at work. The only one available was a remanufactured unit from autozone. After looking at it, it's the type with the resistors inside the unit on the little wires. Hopefully this won't cause any problems. I'm about to go install it in a minute and hoping that this is the problem.

I also broke off one side of the plastic that aims the air into the MAF while installing it because Duffer's tubes were a little too long. That coupled with the questionable condition it used to be in (I've had intermittent power loss issues for a looong time) could possibly explain why I wasn't able to dial in the injectors properly like I was able to before the turbo install and what happened today.

Off to the garage..

Phoebus, definitely! I made it to one of the RK meets over the summer and found a few tibs to park next to. If you were there, I was the guy in the slammed silver tib who didn't say anything to anybody or introduce myself at all. :] I also didn't have much to show off, I just came to look. Next season!


EDIT: Reset ECU, installed new MAF, set low and high fuel trims to -35% across the board before turning on the car. The MAF seemed to have everything fixed at idle. I mean, at least it was idling. Still around the 10-11 for some reason... I let the car warm all the way up and then went for a very tame walk around the block. It ran just fine for about five minutes and then my AFs started dancing around from 9 to 16. Right when I saw this happen I backed off the throttle and it stopped. I sat for a minute and the idle began to dip around 500 and the car would almost turn off and then it bounced right back up. When it reached the bottom of it's dip, the gauge cluster lights flicked off for a second. This is pretty much what was happening earlier today. Sound like an alternator? If so why would this affect my AFs? Input/help please! I'm not sure what this is. I'm done outside for tonight, time for research.

This is the first I've looked at this thread. Oh, boy.

A lot of us have thoroughly explained the dangers of tuning this kind of setup with the SAFC2, and you're about to find out what happens first-hand. Thankfully, engines are pretty cheap. I'm sorry man, but it is what it is.

That being said, do you have access to a scan tool with live data display? You really need the ability to see what's going on there in order to diagnose the problem...otherwise you're flying blind. My guess is it's something to do with the MAF or it's position in the charge piping. Have you tried running it with the turbo disconnected from the MAF yet?

My experience with these cars has been that the ECU freaks out if it sees values it doesn't like. If you have STFTs that are way out of whack like that, the car will do all kinds of crazy random things as a result. I can't explain it, but I've seen it more than once. STFTs should be no greater than +/- 3%.

I would not recommend taking the car to Hyundai under any circumstances, but that's just me. They're just 'parts-replacers', and they're not going to have a clue to do with your car once they see the mods.

On my original setup, I ran my SAFC2 at -50% on the low throttle setting, and somewhere in the area of -10-15% on the high throttle setting. I also had 290s at that time.

I know you're excited to figure out your new setup. But the fact that you have an AFR that low at idle is an indication that something is very wrong, and I would not drive it that way at all- especially with a turbo and fragile stock pistons.

I saw you that day at RK. You should have hung around for awhile. Nobody would have cared if you didn't have anything to show off.

 

Im sorry I cant help you with the SAFC2. I have -no- idea how to tune that thing. I use an SMT6. Hopefully some other guys who have tuned with it knows whats going on and will chime in. Maybe you have a loose ground somewhere? That's where I would start looking first if you're having electrical issues. I don't know how many wires you have messed with but that's a good start.

 

Verify that your positive wiring in the engine bay is secure and away from anything it could ground on. I had a similar issue with my build. I was test driving it and about 5 miles from my house, all power shut off. The car completely died and I couldnt get it start back up. Had to get it towed back home, only to find that the main power wire that normally goes from the battery to the fuse box had metled on the up-pipe and grounded out. Reran it and it drove like a dream

 

There he is \o/ Where joo been hiding?? Got that tibby tuned yet?

 

nooo..... taking her apart..... :'(

 

Are you giving up on the dream?!?!

 

So I started her up again today. She ran just fine until I got out of my neighborhood. Then comes a bunch of misfiring, leaning WAAYYY out in spurts (17-19), subaru sounding idle.

Two CELs.

P1166 - O2s controller adaption diagnosis malfunction
P0030 - HO2s heater control circuit

P1166 is the ECU crying about trying to correct fuel and being able to do so any further, yes? I feel as though the P1166 might be caused by the P0030? I really hope this is as simple as an O2.


I checked the freeze frame data for the P1166 and my STFTs are as follows:

Bank 1: 31.2
Bank 2: -17.9

Uhhh... lol. So would it make sense to assume that it runs fine until it warms up because the O2s are still warming up? They get warmed up and the car starts reading off the **** one and is dumping a ton of fuel to compensate? The presence of P0030 makes me think yes.

Spark plugs are newish, wires are new, injectors are newish, O2s came with the car.

Again I had been running the turbo just fine for a couple of days before this happened.

 

Yea that could be the O2 sensor itself cause the difference between the banks is HUGE. If you replace the O2 and it's not any better then it's gotta be your tune for that bank, or could even be wiring issue of your piggyback... Could even be the wires for the O2 itself, make sure it's not melted and short circuiting on something metal.

 

What plugs are you running and are they a step colder?

 

replaced the o2 before work. no change and I'm stuck at work now too..

plugs are the ngk laser or whatever. not one step colder. gonna take a look at plugs and injectors next. im wondering if maybe the overheating somehow cooked one of them or something. ill put a video up after work.

 

You should be running @ least 1 step colder plugs...

 

You definitely need colder plugs when you have boost.

 

I wouldnt be super worried about the plugs. Step colder is recommended but seeing how you arent going to be boosting it at a high pressure, youre most likely fine. I would verify what lessaj said. The SAFC2 doesnt have anything directly correlated do with o2's, lambda, or anything exhaust as far as I am concerned.

Cold start everything is fine as it reads your LTFTs but as soon as your o2's warm up, your STFT just go nuts, right? If the just replaced the o2 sensor and its still funky, I would think that either your tune is funky, the ecu may have an issue, or highly unlikely, your new o2 is faulty.

This is weird.

 

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20111015075711AAP2Bqu

Check out that link for more info on the P1166 cel. Check that you dont have any vacuum leaks or anything too.

Did this problem occur before you installed the SAFC2?

If not, I would put my money on the tune or the wiring is your culprit. You should not have that much of a gap between banks on your fuel trims. That cel is triggered because your stock o2's are saying that your fuel mixture is out of whack. So out of whack that the ecu is at its limit for trying to fix it. Whats causing it is either the o2 sensor sending faulty signals, the ecu not processing it right, the tune from the safc2 is a little to radical or not right, the SAFC2 could be faulty itself, or there wiring issues on any of those things listed.

 

when you pulled the plugs what did they look like? I'd still like to rule out the plug idea and it's super easy to check them...

 

I've had the SAFC2 installed for months, and the injectors for about a month.

I just pulled the plugs and bank 1 is sooty black and bank 2 is white. Rich and lean, yes? I was planning on looking at the injectors but I find it hard to believe that all 3 on one bank would go bad so I'll skip that.

It's weird to me that everything was running fine until a big lurch and angry tiburon. And that this problem is only occuring on one bank. I'm uploading a video right now. It's ****** cause I'm driving with my phone in one hand but it should give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

 

Short little video here trying to make it down the street. For reference, my normal idle has been at 10-11 (which I haven't been able to correct) since I put in the turbo. That's something I can deal with for now and fix later, unless that's contributing to all of this, but I was able to run fine for a few days like that. Despite the rich idle, I was able to tune in WOT to reasonable numbers. Vac leak?

It seems as though problems happen under more load. In the end I am stopped on a mild hill trying to get going again and the car refuses to. I had to roll backwards and turn around.

All the noise is just my stiff ass coilovers on this bumpy snowy street, not the engine.

 

Is there any other cels on? Get yourself a can of carb cleaner and start spraying around for vacuum leaks. Also, check out your IACV. If its crooked or anything inside, replace it

 

Reset the ECU before taking it for a drive in that vid cause I just put in the new O2. No CELs but the same ****. The only time the CEL pops up is when my ECU gets angry about fuel trims.

My IACV has been crooked for awhile but it's never caused a problem like this.
I actually posted about my IACV awhile ago asking if it was alright.

If it were leaking, though, I would be ending up lean, not rich.. ?